The commonly understood criteria for protecting roses in cold climates is to prevent freeze-thaw damages in the canes during the spring time when night time temperatures drop to below freezing and when daytime temperatures are high enough to kick start the plant. It seems that the extreme cold is not overly harmful, except for the most tender of roses and when temperatures are below -40 to -50 (brrrrrr). I have been almost 100% successful when our winter temperatures have not been lower than -30 and at least 85% successful if they happen to drop below -40.
Here is what I do, which is a bit different than what you might read in other publications:
The first thing that is most important is when you first plant the rose. I dig my hole, as per usual practices, but the depth is such that the bud union (swelled area where the graft meets the root stock) will be positioned at least 4 inches below the adjacent ground surface (i.e. the area well beyond the rose). When you are finished planting the rose (including backfilling), there should be a depression remaining around the rose about 4 inches deep and the bottom of the bud union should just be into the ground surface at the base of the plant, but do not cover the bud union with soil. As will be seen below, during the winterizing process, the bud union should be surrounded by dry peat moss which is an excellent insulator, better than moist soil.
Let the rose harden off as much as possible prior to sustained cold periods. In my area, this means leaving them harden off without protection until at least the third week in October and it also means not deadheading the buds (the presence of rose buds on the plant tells it that winter is approaching). The hardening off period could extend later in your area. I also generally hold off on the watering a bit during this period. Some notable rose growers in my area apply a fertlizer known as super-phosphate which is supposed to help expedite the hardening off process by preparing the canes for winter.
When the hardening off is completed, I (in sequential order): (a) thoroughly water the roses down; (b) remove all debris and leaves (for burning); (c) prune back the canes to between 12 and 18 inches (this may not be necessary in your area); (d) spray the canes thoroughly with lime-sulphur (helps eliminate over-wintering insects and disease) and let this dry thoroughly; (e) spray the canes down thoroughly with an anti-desiccant (to prevent dehydration of the canes - I use hot pepper wax for this purpose); (f) place dry peat moss around the rose to at least 12 or 15 inches above the bud union; and (g) place a styrofoam encasement above the peat moss with a weight on top such as a brick or stone to keep the hut from blowing away (Note: The styrofoam cover must have holes in the side to allow moisture to escape). The styrofoam encasement sold in stores is called a "Rose Hut", but may not be available in your area. It is important that you use dry peat moss because it has superior insulation properties relative to moist peat moss and/or soil. If you don't have a "Rose Hut", maybe try using something else such as a large pail or garbage can. Whatever works, but make sure you have ventilation.
When spring time arrives, do not be too quick to remove the protection. That was my first mistake when I first started this system. Wait at least for the native tree buds to begin popping out. That generally is the signal that you can start removing the cover, including the peat moss (carefully so that you don't break off any sprouts). For the large number of roses that I grow and in recognition of the large volume of peat moss that I use, I have discovered that a large 6 to 7 Hp shop vac works well for removing the peat moss - extremely fast and no damages to the sprouts.
The above may be too extreme for your area and some steps may not be necessary. Admittedly, it can be quite time consuming, but it is one of the best and, if you have that special/extremely tender rose, you might want to try it. I guarantee you that, if you use all of these steps, you will have protected your rose against the harshest winter and spring freeze-thaw conditions, to the extent that is practicable.
Monday, 18 December 2017
The Apothecary's Rose
The Apothecary’s Rose dates back much further in history than the Renaissance, however. Believed to have come from ancient Persia, not much is known about the rose prior to the 7th century when Islam swept through the area and zealots destroyed much of the texts of that time. Persian legends maintain that the rose’s red coloration came about because a nightengale so dearly loved the white rose, it grasped it tightly and the thorns pierced its breast; its blood turned the white rose red. Hence, the rose was called The Red Damask.
The rose came to Europe, depending upon whose text you read, either in the 12th or 13th century. Everyone agrees, however, it came via noble knights returning from the Crusades.
One story, the English side and by far the more colorful, says that the rose was returned to King Louis VII after the Second Crusade in Syria. Since England, in those days, also included Normandy, Brittany and Aquitaine, the rose made its way to King Henry II. (Henry II, as you may remember, was the first to implement the jury system in adjudication.) Henry had married Queen Eleanor of Aquitaine, but had done so probably out of need to solidify the kingdom. As it sometimes happens, Henry had a mistress named Jane Clifford, later renamed (according to legend) The Fair Rosamond. Queen Eleanor got wind of this affair, concocted a poison to give her husband’s mistress, and disguised the deadly potion with the oil of the Apothecary’s Rose and R. alba. After Rosamond’s death, so the legend goes, a new rose sprouted outside the castle — one of both red and white stripes — called Rosa mundi. To this day, R. mundi, a genetic “sport” of the Apothecary’s Rose, will sometimes revert to its original heritage.
By the middle of the 15th century, civil wars in medieval England had broken out in a melee of power grabs for the throne — known to historians as the War of Roses. The Apothecary’s Rose had become the symbol of the House of Lancaster (and renamed The Red Rose of Lancaster); the white R. alba, the symbol of the House of York. After Henry VII (“The Great Administrator”) came to power in 1485, he chose to symbolize the “marriage” of the warring factions by creating a new symbol — the Apothecary’s Rose laid atop R. alba — and labeled it the Tudor Rose, to this day still the emblem of England.
The other story of how the Apothecary’s Rose came to Europe, the French side, is less dramatic. It is believed to have been returned to the Castle of Provins, a city close to Paris, by Thibault IV in 1250 upon his return from the Seventh Crusade. (Thibault died just three years later — apparently not because of the rose, however.) Provins became the European capital for the Apothecary’s Rose and it was renamed The Rose of Provins.
Chiefly grown in monasterries by monks eager to capitalize on the rose’s medicinal values, by the end of the 13th century it was also grown for its perfume and dried for potpourri (literally translated, “rotten pot”). By the 16th century, dried petals from the Apothecary’s Rose were steeped in wine as a cure for hangovers — although this idea was not new; coming from the Early Romans who used roses for the same purpose almost 1200 years before.
By the time of Napoleon in the 19th century, there were more apothecaries on the main street of Provins than any other type of shop. At each, an Apothecary’s Rose was planted outside the entrance. It became as much a symbol of the druggist as the balanced scales were to the lawyer and the three globes to the pawn broker.
Druggists dispensed remedies containing the Apothecary’s Rose that reportedly aided indigestion, sore throats, skin rashes and eye maladies. Women believed that the petals would eliminate wrinkles and preserve their youth if rubbed on the skin. (It was proven, late in the 19th century, that roses contained essential oils, potassium and iron.)
A recipe for rose tea comes from this era. Translated: 5 teaspoons of rose petals are steeped in 4 cups of boiling water for 5 to 10 minutes; then sweetened with honey and served warm.
To this day, the Apothecary’s Rose is still used for its highly fragrant qualities in potpourri, soothing teas, lotions and other cosmetics. It grows to 5 ft. and spreads by suckering. It’s rated by the American Rose Society at 8.6 — almost as high as you can get... and rightfully so!
The rose came to Europe, depending upon whose text you read, either in the 12th or 13th century. Everyone agrees, however, it came via noble knights returning from the Crusades.
One story, the English side and by far the more colorful, says that the rose was returned to King Louis VII after the Second Crusade in Syria. Since England, in those days, also included Normandy, Brittany and Aquitaine, the rose made its way to King Henry II. (Henry II, as you may remember, was the first to implement the jury system in adjudication.) Henry had married Queen Eleanor of Aquitaine, but had done so probably out of need to solidify the kingdom. As it sometimes happens, Henry had a mistress named Jane Clifford, later renamed (according to legend) The Fair Rosamond. Queen Eleanor got wind of this affair, concocted a poison to give her husband’s mistress, and disguised the deadly potion with the oil of the Apothecary’s Rose and R. alba. After Rosamond’s death, so the legend goes, a new rose sprouted outside the castle — one of both red and white stripes — called Rosa mundi. To this day, R. mundi, a genetic “sport” of the Apothecary’s Rose, will sometimes revert to its original heritage.
By the middle of the 15th century, civil wars in medieval England had broken out in a melee of power grabs for the throne — known to historians as the War of Roses. The Apothecary’s Rose had become the symbol of the House of Lancaster (and renamed The Red Rose of Lancaster); the white R. alba, the symbol of the House of York. After Henry VII (“The Great Administrator”) came to power in 1485, he chose to symbolize the “marriage” of the warring factions by creating a new symbol — the Apothecary’s Rose laid atop R. alba — and labeled it the Tudor Rose, to this day still the emblem of England.
The other story of how the Apothecary’s Rose came to Europe, the French side, is less dramatic. It is believed to have been returned to the Castle of Provins, a city close to Paris, by Thibault IV in 1250 upon his return from the Seventh Crusade. (Thibault died just three years later — apparently not because of the rose, however.) Provins became the European capital for the Apothecary’s Rose and it was renamed The Rose of Provins.
Chiefly grown in monasterries by monks eager to capitalize on the rose’s medicinal values, by the end of the 13th century it was also grown for its perfume and dried for potpourri (literally translated, “rotten pot”). By the 16th century, dried petals from the Apothecary’s Rose were steeped in wine as a cure for hangovers — although this idea was not new; coming from the Early Romans who used roses for the same purpose almost 1200 years before.
By the time of Napoleon in the 19th century, there were more apothecaries on the main street of Provins than any other type of shop. At each, an Apothecary’s Rose was planted outside the entrance. It became as much a symbol of the druggist as the balanced scales were to the lawyer and the three globes to the pawn broker.
Druggists dispensed remedies containing the Apothecary’s Rose that reportedly aided indigestion, sore throats, skin rashes and eye maladies. Women believed that the petals would eliminate wrinkles and preserve their youth if rubbed on the skin. (It was proven, late in the 19th century, that roses contained essential oils, potassium and iron.)
A recipe for rose tea comes from this era. Translated: 5 teaspoons of rose petals are steeped in 4 cups of boiling water for 5 to 10 minutes; then sweetened with honey and served warm.
To this day, the Apothecary’s Rose is still used for its highly fragrant qualities in potpourri, soothing teas, lotions and other cosmetics. It grows to 5 ft. and spreads by suckering. It’s rated by the American Rose Society at 8.6 — almost as high as you can get... and rightfully so!
Grading Roses
Exactly what are the differences among the grades of roses — grade 1, grade 1 1/2 jumbo, etc. And if it is only size, does it pay to buy the smaller size and wait for it to grow? - Michelle
The grade of a rose refers to a rating established by the American Association of Nurserymen. The grades apply to grafted, field grown roses as they are removed after two years of growing in the field. Subsequent to digging, the grower, shipper or nursery may prune the rose for convenience in handling.
The specifications differ among the various rose classes, and the measurements are taken within 3 in. (8 cm) of the grafting union. They do not apply to roses grown on their own roots or roses whose mature size would not permit them to attain the dimensions stated (like miniatures, for example).
There are three grades as follows:
Grade 1
Hybrid Teas and Grandifloras must have three or more strong canes, two of which are at least 18 in. (45 cm) long. The canes should be well-spaced around the graft.
Floribundas meet the same standards, but the canes need only be 15 in. (38 cm) long.
Polyanthas must have four or more canes at least 12 in. (30 cm) long.
Climbers and ramblers must have three or more canes 24 in. (60 cm) long.
Note: "Strong canes" is not defined, but is generally accepted to mean canes which have attained their mature size in diameter. As a minimum, at least one cane must be at least 1/2 in. (12 mm) in diameter.
Grade 1 1/2
Hybrid Teas and Grandifloras must have two or more canes at least 15 in. (38 cm) long.
Floribundas must have two or more canes 14 in. (35 cm) long.
Climbers must have two or more canes 18 in. (45 cm) long.
Note: Polyanthas which do not meet Grade 1 standards are not graded.
Grade 2
All classes must have two or more canes 12 in. (30 cm) long.
RE your question: "...and if it is only size, does it pay to buy the smaller size and wait for it to grow?"
One should consider the purchase of a rose as carefully as one would any other piece of merchandise. Would you accept a factory second if you were purchasing a fine piece of furniture? Well maybe... if you were willing to take a chance.
Remember, these are as grown in the fields on rootstocks. If you purchase a lower grade rose, you are purchasing a runt and potentially a rose that will not live up to its genetic potential.
The grade of a rose refers to a rating established by the American Association of Nurserymen. The grades apply to grafted, field grown roses as they are removed after two years of growing in the field. Subsequent to digging, the grower, shipper or nursery may prune the rose for convenience in handling.
The specifications differ among the various rose classes, and the measurements are taken within 3 in. (8 cm) of the grafting union. They do not apply to roses grown on their own roots or roses whose mature size would not permit them to attain the dimensions stated (like miniatures, for example).
There are three grades as follows:
Grade 1
Hybrid Teas and Grandifloras must have three or more strong canes, two of which are at least 18 in. (45 cm) long. The canes should be well-spaced around the graft.
Floribundas meet the same standards, but the canes need only be 15 in. (38 cm) long.
Polyanthas must have four or more canes at least 12 in. (30 cm) long.
Climbers and ramblers must have three or more canes 24 in. (60 cm) long.
Note: "Strong canes" is not defined, but is generally accepted to mean canes which have attained their mature size in diameter. As a minimum, at least one cane must be at least 1/2 in. (12 mm) in diameter.
Grade 1 1/2
Hybrid Teas and Grandifloras must have two or more canes at least 15 in. (38 cm) long.
Floribundas must have two or more canes 14 in. (35 cm) long.
Climbers must have two or more canes 18 in. (45 cm) long.
Note: Polyanthas which do not meet Grade 1 standards are not graded.
Grade 2
All classes must have two or more canes 12 in. (30 cm) long.
RE your question: "...and if it is only size, does it pay to buy the smaller size and wait for it to grow?"
One should consider the purchase of a rose as carefully as one would any other piece of merchandise. Would you accept a factory second if you were purchasing a fine piece of furniture? Well maybe... if you were willing to take a chance.
Remember, these are as grown in the fields on rootstocks. If you purchase a lower grade rose, you are purchasing a runt and potentially a rose that will not live up to its genetic potential.
What is Rose Stem Canker
How do you get canker and what can you do about it? - Heide
This is definitely a symptom of Stem Canker, a fungal disease that can affect any part of the plant, but most commonly attacks stems and canes (hence, the name). The fungus enters through wounds caused by crossing canes, improper pruning, even deadheading. It is spread by water splashing on the plant from irrigation systems or rain.
Cankers come in three flavors. The pathogens scientific names are Coniothyrium wernsdorffiae, Cryptosporella umbrina, and Coniothrium fuckelii. C. wernsdorffiae is the most severe looking of the three. C. umbrina is the least noticeable. And your symptoms describe C. fuckelii.
In general, the cankers start as small yellowish or reddish spots on the bark, gradually increasing in size. Eventually, the canker turns brown, increases in size, and may eventually girdle the cane. The tissue within the canker begins to dry out and shrink, giving it a somewhat shrivelled appearance. If the canker only covers part of the cane, growth above the canker will continue. If it girdles the cane, however, growth will die.
One more thing for the northern rosarians who may be reading this article. After removing winter protection in spring, cankers can appear as black saddles on the cane. As they are exposed to air and sunlight, however, they quickly change in appearance to those symptoms described above.
Controlling Stem Canker is a combination of proper pruning procedures and appropriate fungicides.
As stated above, keep canes from crossing each other. Even if they appear not to be touching, wind and growth can change that condition.
Pruning out dead or dying wood during your regular visits to the garden is also essential.
And when planting new plants, use care not to damage canes. If you should damage a cane seriously, consider removing the cane entirely.
Likewise, when pruning or deadheading, cut back to the node. Failing to do so, results in dieback to the node, and the resulting dead wood is an invitation to canker spores.
As for fungicides, those that control black spot on ornamentals will also control canker.
This is definitely a symptom of Stem Canker, a fungal disease that can affect any part of the plant, but most commonly attacks stems and canes (hence, the name). The fungus enters through wounds caused by crossing canes, improper pruning, even deadheading. It is spread by water splashing on the plant from irrigation systems or rain.
Cankers come in three flavors. The pathogens scientific names are Coniothyrium wernsdorffiae, Cryptosporella umbrina, and Coniothrium fuckelii. C. wernsdorffiae is the most severe looking of the three. C. umbrina is the least noticeable. And your symptoms describe C. fuckelii.
In general, the cankers start as small yellowish or reddish spots on the bark, gradually increasing in size. Eventually, the canker turns brown, increases in size, and may eventually girdle the cane. The tissue within the canker begins to dry out and shrink, giving it a somewhat shrivelled appearance. If the canker only covers part of the cane, growth above the canker will continue. If it girdles the cane, however, growth will die.
One more thing for the northern rosarians who may be reading this article. After removing winter protection in spring, cankers can appear as black saddles on the cane. As they are exposed to air and sunlight, however, they quickly change in appearance to those symptoms described above.
Controlling Stem Canker is a combination of proper pruning procedures and appropriate fungicides.
As stated above, keep canes from crossing each other. Even if they appear not to be touching, wind and growth can change that condition.
Pruning out dead or dying wood during your regular visits to the garden is also essential.
And when planting new plants, use care not to damage canes. If you should damage a cane seriously, consider removing the cane entirely.
Likewise, when pruning or deadheading, cut back to the node. Failing to do so, results in dieback to the node, and the resulting dead wood is an invitation to canker spores.
As for fungicides, those that control black spot on ornamentals will also control canker.
Rugosa Roses
Rugosas are a rose Class of the Subgenus II Rosa Eurosa, specifically Cassiorhodon (=Cinnamomeae). Now that we have the botanical stuff out of the way, what that means is they are a specific botanic class of roses native to northern Asia, eastern Siberia, western Alaska, and the northeastern American continent. The "parent" plant (R. rugosa) was discovered (by western rosarians) in Japan and western Asia in 1796.
Hansa, Photo By: Irene Hannestad
Characteristically, Rugosas have dark green, leathery, crinkled leaves (from which they received their name, which means "wrinkled" in Latin). They are extremely cold hardy and typically rated to Hardiness Zones 4 or 5 (-10 to -25F/-20 to -30C). For rosarians in southern climates, this may mean some difficulty in finding specimens which can adapt to hot, dry summers; although I have three specimens in my north-central Texas garden (Zone 7b).
R. rugosa roses are usually "singles" that is, they have one row of five petals. Hybrid Rugosas are "doubles" having numerous, informally-formed petals. Colors range from white to pink to red to purple. All are noted for their strong perfumy scent. Rugosas are remontant (repeat-blooming) if one removes spent blossoms. If left to remain on the shrub, however, brilliant red-orange rosehips are produced to feed man and beast during the winter.
Canes produce numerous prickles. On some cultivars, it is almost impossible to find any portion of the cane that is not completely covered. At least one hybrid, Therese Bugnet, a pink hybrid introduced in 1950, produces stems which turn deep, maroon-red in winter, adding a touch of color to an otherwise dull winter rose garden. (Terese Bugnet, that’s pronounced "Tear - EES boo - nay" but affectionately known as "Terry Bug Net" among Rugosa lovers.)
Rugosas are also noted for their suckering (their production of stems from the roots). In some parts of the U.S. they have become a pest and are routinely weeded out. Hybrid Rugosas are less likely to sucker than the species types. Likewise, purchasing specimens grafted to root stocks will also reduce this suckering characteristic. When planting Rugosas grown on their own roots, it is wise to place them carefully in the garden, allowing plenty of room for them spread.
Rugosas are also notoriously disease resistant. And because of their floral form, do very well when used in a less toxic IPM program. Most specimens do not like to be sprayed with anything (except plain water). I do not recommend applying any pesticides or fungicides, even if a rarely seen bout of black spot is noticed. Otherwise, phytotoxicity is quick to follow and the shrub will rapidly defoliate. This also means one may have to "let Nature take its course" if pest beetles like Japanese or May/June Beetles are a problem. To control pest beetles, applications of beneficial nematodes (Steinernema or Heterorhabditis sp.) to the soil around the rose may be a better method of control.
For a first time Rugosa grower, I would recommend Hansa (picture above), a 1905 introduction which produces brilliant red-purple, extremely fragrant blooms. It is comparatively small growing (4 - 5ft./1.2-1.5 m). In fall, it produces red-orange hips suitable for making rosehip jams or jellies that is, if you can get to them before the birds do.
Hansa, Photo By: Irene Hannestad
Characteristically, Rugosas have dark green, leathery, crinkled leaves (from which they received their name, which means "wrinkled" in Latin). They are extremely cold hardy and typically rated to Hardiness Zones 4 or 5 (-10 to -25F/-20 to -30C). For rosarians in southern climates, this may mean some difficulty in finding specimens which can adapt to hot, dry summers; although I have three specimens in my north-central Texas garden (Zone 7b).
R. rugosa roses are usually "singles" that is, they have one row of five petals. Hybrid Rugosas are "doubles" having numerous, informally-formed petals. Colors range from white to pink to red to purple. All are noted for their strong perfumy scent. Rugosas are remontant (repeat-blooming) if one removes spent blossoms. If left to remain on the shrub, however, brilliant red-orange rosehips are produced to feed man and beast during the winter.
Canes produce numerous prickles. On some cultivars, it is almost impossible to find any portion of the cane that is not completely covered. At least one hybrid, Therese Bugnet, a pink hybrid introduced in 1950, produces stems which turn deep, maroon-red in winter, adding a touch of color to an otherwise dull winter rose garden. (Terese Bugnet, that’s pronounced "Tear - EES boo - nay" but affectionately known as "Terry Bug Net" among Rugosa lovers.)
Rugosas are also noted for their suckering (their production of stems from the roots). In some parts of the U.S. they have become a pest and are routinely weeded out. Hybrid Rugosas are less likely to sucker than the species types. Likewise, purchasing specimens grafted to root stocks will also reduce this suckering characteristic. When planting Rugosas grown on their own roots, it is wise to place them carefully in the garden, allowing plenty of room for them spread.
Rugosas are also notoriously disease resistant. And because of their floral form, do very well when used in a less toxic IPM program. Most specimens do not like to be sprayed with anything (except plain water). I do not recommend applying any pesticides or fungicides, even if a rarely seen bout of black spot is noticed. Otherwise, phytotoxicity is quick to follow and the shrub will rapidly defoliate. This also means one may have to "let Nature take its course" if pest beetles like Japanese or May/June Beetles are a problem. To control pest beetles, applications of beneficial nematodes (Steinernema or Heterorhabditis sp.) to the soil around the rose may be a better method of control.
For a first time Rugosa grower, I would recommend Hansa (picture above), a 1905 introduction which produces brilliant red-purple, extremely fragrant blooms. It is comparatively small growing (4 - 5ft./1.2-1.5 m). In fall, it produces red-orange hips suitable for making rosehip jams or jellies that is, if you can get to them before the birds do.
Controlling Rose Gall
Tis the season in Rosedom to cut things! Some of you in the southern hemisphere will be pruning for summer flush. Some of you in the northern hemisphere will be digging for transplant. Some will be ordering bareroot roses through the mail. And some will even be performing your annual pruning in preparation for spring. All of you will be cutting stems or roots and making wounds on your roses. And as you might expect, these wounds provide an entry point for bacterial infection - not the least of which is gall.
How Galls Get Started:
Bacterial galls are tumors caused by a critter called Agrobacterium.
Crown galls, those tumors which attack the root crown of the plant near the soil's surface, are produced by A. tumefaciens.
Cane and stem galls are produced by A. rubi.
These bacteria live in the soil and can survive long periods of adverse conditions in soil debris or within the systemic fluids of the plant. When the plant is wounded, the bacteria enter the tissues and form a soft, spongy tumor. The bacteria proliferate on the outer surfaces of the tumor. As the gall hardens, some of these outer tissues are sloughed to the ground carrying with them more bacteria which then re-infect previously non-infected, wounded areas of the plant.
Susceptible Soil Conditions
If you have acidic soil, consider yourself lucky. A. tumefaciens does not do well in acidic soil. The bacteria is most prevalent in late spring when soils are moist.
How Plants Get Wounded
The wounds can be caused by pruning, digging, freeze injury, improper fertilization or irrigation causing cracked stems, and even pest insect damage.
Here are some common scenarios and precautions:
A deal too good to be true: The wounds can be caused by pruning, digging, freeze injury, improper fertilization or irrigation causing cracked stems, and even pest insect damage. Here are some common scenarios and precautions.
Pruning with improperly maintained equipment: The use of dull shears or shears with misaligned blades can cause damage to stems and canes; preventing a "clean" cut. Tissue damage or die-back areas are prime entry points for pest bacteria. Be certain your pruning equipment is sharp and the "business end" is working correctly.
Pruning with infected equipment: If pruning lots of plants, the bacteria can be passed from infected plants to a non-infected plants. Sterilize shears and saws between shrubs.
Transplanting: Digging plants for transplanting causes many damaged roots. Prune away damaged and broken roots before replanting.
Purchasing bareroot plants: Roots and stems can be damaged or broken in shipment. Prune them cleanly before planting.
Freeze damage: After severe winters, plants can experience die-back or chafing due to canes rubbing together. Prune it away.
Stem cracks: After heavy rains or feedings, cracks in stem tissues can appear. Prune it away.
Plant chewing pests: Critters of all types like to chew on the succulent foliage and stems. Prune away damaged areas and apply repellents to discourage them from returning.
If you find galls on your plants, don't despair. At the worst, gall infection will cause stunted plant growth, poor fruit development, and reduced nutrient and water uptake. Often, the top the the plant will appear normal.
Root galls are hardest to detect and sometimes go unnoticed until a seemingly unresponsive plant is dug for transplant or removed. Prune away the gall and that portion of the root to which it is attached. Dip the cut into a solution of Agrobacterium radiobacter strain 84 (commonly sold as Galltrol-A or NOGALL) to prevent reinfection.
Crown galls are hardest to remove. They frequently form on the grafting union of modern hybrid roses. Prune away the infected area to the best of your ability, and spray on a solution of A. radiobacter to prevent reinfection.
Stem galls are the easiest to notice and remove. Prune away infected stems and canes and spray with A. radiobacter to prevent reinfection.
Note: A. radiobacter will not eliminate existing galls. It is a naturally occurring biological control bacterium - the natural counterpart - to A. tumefaciens and A. rubi.
If planting or replanting in the infested or potentially infested soil, spray the plant's roots and stems in a solution of A. radiobacter to prevent infection. I perfer to dig out the old soil and replace with new uninfected soil.
How Galls Get Started:
Bacterial galls are tumors caused by a critter called Agrobacterium.
Crown galls, those tumors which attack the root crown of the plant near the soil's surface, are produced by A. tumefaciens.
Cane and stem galls are produced by A. rubi.
These bacteria live in the soil and can survive long periods of adverse conditions in soil debris or within the systemic fluids of the plant. When the plant is wounded, the bacteria enter the tissues and form a soft, spongy tumor. The bacteria proliferate on the outer surfaces of the tumor. As the gall hardens, some of these outer tissues are sloughed to the ground carrying with them more bacteria which then re-infect previously non-infected, wounded areas of the plant.
Susceptible Soil Conditions
If you have acidic soil, consider yourself lucky. A. tumefaciens does not do well in acidic soil. The bacteria is most prevalent in late spring when soils are moist.
How Plants Get Wounded
The wounds can be caused by pruning, digging, freeze injury, improper fertilization or irrigation causing cracked stems, and even pest insect damage.
Here are some common scenarios and precautions:
A deal too good to be true: The wounds can be caused by pruning, digging, freeze injury, improper fertilization or irrigation causing cracked stems, and even pest insect damage. Here are some common scenarios and precautions.
Pruning with improperly maintained equipment: The use of dull shears or shears with misaligned blades can cause damage to stems and canes; preventing a "clean" cut. Tissue damage or die-back areas are prime entry points for pest bacteria. Be certain your pruning equipment is sharp and the "business end" is working correctly.
Pruning with infected equipment: If pruning lots of plants, the bacteria can be passed from infected plants to a non-infected plants. Sterilize shears and saws between shrubs.
Transplanting: Digging plants for transplanting causes many damaged roots. Prune away damaged and broken roots before replanting.
Purchasing bareroot plants: Roots and stems can be damaged or broken in shipment. Prune them cleanly before planting.
Freeze damage: After severe winters, plants can experience die-back or chafing due to canes rubbing together. Prune it away.
Stem cracks: After heavy rains or feedings, cracks in stem tissues can appear. Prune it away.
Plant chewing pests: Critters of all types like to chew on the succulent foliage and stems. Prune away damaged areas and apply repellents to discourage them from returning.
If you find galls on your plants, don't despair. At the worst, gall infection will cause stunted plant growth, poor fruit development, and reduced nutrient and water uptake. Often, the top the the plant will appear normal.
Root galls are hardest to detect and sometimes go unnoticed until a seemingly unresponsive plant is dug for transplant or removed. Prune away the gall and that portion of the root to which it is attached. Dip the cut into a solution of Agrobacterium radiobacter strain 84 (commonly sold as Galltrol-A or NOGALL) to prevent reinfection.
Crown galls are hardest to remove. They frequently form on the grafting union of modern hybrid roses. Prune away the infected area to the best of your ability, and spray on a solution of A. radiobacter to prevent reinfection.
Stem galls are the easiest to notice and remove. Prune away infected stems and canes and spray with A. radiobacter to prevent reinfection.
Note: A. radiobacter will not eliminate existing galls. It is a naturally occurring biological control bacterium - the natural counterpart - to A. tumefaciens and A. rubi.
If planting or replanting in the infested or potentially infested soil, spray the plant's roots and stems in a solution of A. radiobacter to prevent infection. I perfer to dig out the old soil and replace with new uninfected soil.
Drought Proof Your Roses
Unfortunately, there are no modern hybrid roses which can be considered drought tolerant or heat tolerant. That said, there are some techniques you can employ during our hot summers to reduce the watering needs of modern roses, thus reducing the heat stress they undergo.
Reduce the fertilization schedule on your roses as they enter the summer months. This reduces their bloom schedule and reduces the amount of new growth put on during the heat of summer. Depending on which type of fertilizer you use, this means reducing the amount of fertilizer from two weeks to 30 days prior to when we expect our hot weather to sustain temperatures near 98F. For North Texans, we can expect these temperatures by mid-June. That should be your signal to start reducing your fertilizing until late in the summer. I prefer organic fertilizers, and fertilize heavily in late-February, then monthly until mid-May. I stop fertilizing until late-August.
Consider using lighter-colored roses. Red, orange and lavender roses show heat stress more quickly than white, light-pink and pale yellow roses.
When watering, apply deeply. Deep watering roses ensures moisture will penetrate down into the root zone where micorrhizal fungi and the root "hairs" maximize the surface area of the roots and provide the most efficient use of the water. Remember, too, that the root zone extends well down and away from the "drip line" of the rose. And if using roses grafted onto Fortuniana rootstocks, those roots will be closer to the soil's surface.
To retain the moisture and moderate soil temperatures, ensure you have mulched heavily with 3 to 4 inches of shredded hardwood mulch.
Apply antitranspirants. These waxy polymers help reduce the transpiration of moisture through leaves and stems. Products like Cloud Cover® or Wilt Pruf® or similar antidesiccants, sprayed per label directions, will help reduce the heat stress experienced by the rose.
Replant your more heat-susceptible roses to the east side of your home or where they will receive protection from the hot, afternoon sun. When doing this, be certain they will still receive a minimum of 6 hours of direct sunlight. But that sun should be morning sun.
Consider changing out some of your roses to those more tolerant of our southern heat extremes. Many of the so-called antique roses are more adapted to our heat and weather excesses here in Texas. These would include the Teas, Chinas, Hybrid Musks, Hybrid Perpetuals, Bourbons and many more Classes. Avoid using antique roses bred for colder climates such as the Kordes Roses and Rugosas.
Reduce the fertilization schedule on your roses as they enter the summer months. This reduces their bloom schedule and reduces the amount of new growth put on during the heat of summer. Depending on which type of fertilizer you use, this means reducing the amount of fertilizer from two weeks to 30 days prior to when we expect our hot weather to sustain temperatures near 98F. For North Texans, we can expect these temperatures by mid-June. That should be your signal to start reducing your fertilizing until late in the summer. I prefer organic fertilizers, and fertilize heavily in late-February, then monthly until mid-May. I stop fertilizing until late-August.
Consider using lighter-colored roses. Red, orange and lavender roses show heat stress more quickly than white, light-pink and pale yellow roses.
When watering, apply deeply. Deep watering roses ensures moisture will penetrate down into the root zone where micorrhizal fungi and the root "hairs" maximize the surface area of the roots and provide the most efficient use of the water. Remember, too, that the root zone extends well down and away from the "drip line" of the rose. And if using roses grafted onto Fortuniana rootstocks, those roots will be closer to the soil's surface.
To retain the moisture and moderate soil temperatures, ensure you have mulched heavily with 3 to 4 inches of shredded hardwood mulch.
Apply antitranspirants. These waxy polymers help reduce the transpiration of moisture through leaves and stems. Products like Cloud Cover® or Wilt Pruf® or similar antidesiccants, sprayed per label directions, will help reduce the heat stress experienced by the rose.
Replant your more heat-susceptible roses to the east side of your home or where they will receive protection from the hot, afternoon sun. When doing this, be certain they will still receive a minimum of 6 hours of direct sunlight. But that sun should be morning sun.
Consider changing out some of your roses to those more tolerant of our southern heat extremes. Many of the so-called antique roses are more adapted to our heat and weather excesses here in Texas. These would include the Teas, Chinas, Hybrid Musks, Hybrid Perpetuals, Bourbons and many more Classes. Avoid using antique roses bred for colder climates such as the Kordes Roses and Rugosas.
Bare Root Roses
Sometimes you just can’t find that perfect rose at your local nursery; you’ll have to order it over the web. And often that website order rose will come to you as bare root. Knowing how to properly plant your new bare-root rose will improve your chances for success.
Steps to planting a bare root rose are:
Inspect the rose immediately. Open the shipping container as soon as possible after it is received. Check for broken canes and roots, and trim off all damaged parts with sharp, sterilized pruning shears. Doing this immediately is important to reduce the likelihood of rot and disease – specifically root and crown galls.
Soak the roots overnight in a bucket of water. If you want, you can add a weak solution of rooting activator which contains synthetic Vitamin B1 (like SUPERThrive™). However, a mild solution of "willow water" will also work… if you have access to willows, that is. This procedure rehydrates the roots. [Hint: If you have added supplements to your soaking water, save the water for use later in the planting process.]
Prepare the hole into which the rose is to be planted. As a rule of thumb, dig the hole about 1½ times as deep and 1½ times as wide as the root system is long. Mound a small pile of soil in the center of the hole as a support for the rose’s root crown.
If you have properly prepared your soil, no additional materials need to be added to the hole. However, if your rose bed is new or your soil is low in nutrient value, you may want to add a small amount of ground phosphate rock or bone meal to the bottom of the hole. I also sprinkle a dusting of powdered kelp into the bottom and sides of the hole, although this is not required.
Plant the rose according to your hardiness zone. In all cases, spread the roots down and over the top of the mounded soil in the hole’s bottom. Ensure equal distribution of the roots around the mound. Remember: Your placement of those roots will determine how they will grow in the future. Never wrap roots around the rose.
The depth to which you plant the rose depends on your hardiness zone.
For Zones 9 - 10, plant grafted roses so their bud unions are the width of three fingers above the soil line, but do not expose the root crown. For own-root roses, plant so the top of the root crown is at the soil line. [Hint: To determine the soil line, lay a stake or broom handle across the top of the open hole.]
[Note: For those of you new to this technique, recent studies have shown planting bud unions above the soil line (where possible) reduces pest bacterial infestation and keeps the bud union dry to reduce graft decay.]
For Zones 7 - 8, plant grafted roses so their bud unions are at the soil line. Do the same for own-root roses.
For Zones 5 - 6, plant grafted roses so their bud unions are the width of three fingers below the soil line. For own-root roses, plant the root crown at the soil line or slightly below.
For Zone 4 and colder, plant grafted roses the width of your hand below the soil line. Own root roses (those that will survive these winter temperatures) can be planted at the soil line.
While holding onto the rose, fill the hole with garden soil. Use a bucket or garden hose to water in the soil around the roots. This is important to remove any major air pockets left by the filling process, and ensure good root/soil contact. Don’t let the rose settle deeper into the hole than you intend for your hardiness zone. [Hint: As a technique, secure the rose with plastic tape or twine to the stake laid across the hole. This helps prevent it from sinking into the hole as you water-in the soil.]
After watering-in, apply a solution of rooting stimulator to the root zone. (If you added synthetic Vitamin B-1 to your root soaking solution in Step 2, use it here.) Do not apply the rooting stimulator until after you have watered-in the rose. Doing otherwise could burn the roots.
Mound garden soil up around the exposed canes, but leave the top two bud eyes exposed. This will protect the rose from any severe late frosts until the roots develop. It also signals the rose to get started doing its thing. After the bud eyes swell and the first few new leaflets appear, remove the soil from around the canes and form a watering well around the base of the rose.
Sit back and enjoy all your hard work. You’ve earned it!
If you are not sure which Hardiness Zone you are in and you live in the North American continent or Hawaii, then you can check your zone at USDA Hardiness Zone Map or Plant Hardiness Zones of Canada. If you don’t live in the North American continent, click here for a temperature table to compare your average lowest winter temperature to a specified hardiness zone.
Steps to planting a bare root rose are:
Inspect the rose immediately. Open the shipping container as soon as possible after it is received. Check for broken canes and roots, and trim off all damaged parts with sharp, sterilized pruning shears. Doing this immediately is important to reduce the likelihood of rot and disease – specifically root and crown galls.
Soak the roots overnight in a bucket of water. If you want, you can add a weak solution of rooting activator which contains synthetic Vitamin B1 (like SUPERThrive™). However, a mild solution of "willow water" will also work… if you have access to willows, that is. This procedure rehydrates the roots. [Hint: If you have added supplements to your soaking water, save the water for use later in the planting process.]
Prepare the hole into which the rose is to be planted. As a rule of thumb, dig the hole about 1½ times as deep and 1½ times as wide as the root system is long. Mound a small pile of soil in the center of the hole as a support for the rose’s root crown.
If you have properly prepared your soil, no additional materials need to be added to the hole. However, if your rose bed is new or your soil is low in nutrient value, you may want to add a small amount of ground phosphate rock or bone meal to the bottom of the hole. I also sprinkle a dusting of powdered kelp into the bottom and sides of the hole, although this is not required.
Plant the rose according to your hardiness zone. In all cases, spread the roots down and over the top of the mounded soil in the hole’s bottom. Ensure equal distribution of the roots around the mound. Remember: Your placement of those roots will determine how they will grow in the future. Never wrap roots around the rose.
The depth to which you plant the rose depends on your hardiness zone.
For Zones 9 - 10, plant grafted roses so their bud unions are the width of three fingers above the soil line, but do not expose the root crown. For own-root roses, plant so the top of the root crown is at the soil line. [Hint: To determine the soil line, lay a stake or broom handle across the top of the open hole.]
[Note: For those of you new to this technique, recent studies have shown planting bud unions above the soil line (where possible) reduces pest bacterial infestation and keeps the bud union dry to reduce graft decay.]
For Zones 7 - 8, plant grafted roses so their bud unions are at the soil line. Do the same for own-root roses.
For Zones 5 - 6, plant grafted roses so their bud unions are the width of three fingers below the soil line. For own-root roses, plant the root crown at the soil line or slightly below.
For Zone 4 and colder, plant grafted roses the width of your hand below the soil line. Own root roses (those that will survive these winter temperatures) can be planted at the soil line.
While holding onto the rose, fill the hole with garden soil. Use a bucket or garden hose to water in the soil around the roots. This is important to remove any major air pockets left by the filling process, and ensure good root/soil contact. Don’t let the rose settle deeper into the hole than you intend for your hardiness zone. [Hint: As a technique, secure the rose with plastic tape or twine to the stake laid across the hole. This helps prevent it from sinking into the hole as you water-in the soil.]
After watering-in, apply a solution of rooting stimulator to the root zone. (If you added synthetic Vitamin B-1 to your root soaking solution in Step 2, use it here.) Do not apply the rooting stimulator until after you have watered-in the rose. Doing otherwise could burn the roots.
Mound garden soil up around the exposed canes, but leave the top two bud eyes exposed. This will protect the rose from any severe late frosts until the roots develop. It also signals the rose to get started doing its thing. After the bud eyes swell and the first few new leaflets appear, remove the soil from around the canes and form a watering well around the base of the rose.
Sit back and enjoy all your hard work. You’ve earned it!
If you are not sure which Hardiness Zone you are in and you live in the North American continent or Hawaii, then you can check your zone at USDA Hardiness Zone Map or Plant Hardiness Zones of Canada. If you don’t live in the North American continent, click here for a temperature table to compare your average lowest winter temperature to a specified hardiness zone.
Deadheading Roses
When you get right down to it, deadheading is a gardener’s means of fooling Mother Nature!
If left to its own desires, a flowering plant would put forth a bloom, the blossom would be fertilized, and the ripening ovary would become a fruit. If the task of reproduction was completed, the plant would expend its energy and nutrients to the developing fruit instead of the production of more flowers.
Deadheading, the removal of spent blossoms with the aim of forcing a plant to rebloom, is our technique for tricking the plant into thinking it has failed in this reproductive process. By removing the blossom before it has had a chance to fully develop a fruit, the plant sends out regrowth hormones, produces a new bloom, and tries again.
Traditionally, rosarians have defined deadheading as the careful removal of the bloom stem down to the first or second, five leaf set (sometimes called a true leaf). I suggest this may not always be the best procedure.
Deadheading remontant (repeat-blooming) roses has multiple functions. Not only will it conserve plant energy and produce more blooms, it will also remove hiding places and food for insects which often become pests in our garden. It may even permit minor improvements in air circulation, thus reducing the potential for fungal diseases.
Learning to deadhead properly is essential to good rose production. So how do we do that?
Two important tips to remember: Barring genetic mutations and certain viral diseases, a bloom stem can be no larger in diameter than the stem from which it grows. Furthermore, the subsequent blooms will be proportionate in size to the stem from which they emerge. This means the further down the stem you cut, the larger the bloom stem and subsequent buds will become, and hence, the longer it will take for the rose to rebloom.
All cuts are best made at an angle away from and slightly above the node. (If cane boring mini-wasps are a problem, you may wish to seal the cut with white glue or a tiny drop of orange shellac. Otherwise, the plant should seal its own cut within a few minutes.) Stem growth will begin from the nodes nearest to the cut. Therefore, the subsequent bloom stem will be slightly smaller than the stem you have just removed. And deciding how far down the stem to make that cut is best determined by using good judgment.
If your rose produces a cluster of blooms, you may want to deadhead further back on the stem. If, however, you are growing a Hybrid Tea and religiously disbud, then deadheading further down the stem should be tempered with how large you expect the second bloom to become and how soon you want the rose to recycle.
So far, we have only talked about modern roses and their close relatives. Many antique and Old Garden roses bloom in clusters from multiple nodes near the terminus of the cane. In this case, trimming the spent clusters rather than finding the true leaf should be your focus. The secondary clusters, those blooming below the terminal cluster, will still be blooming when the primary cluster has finished. After all the clusters have finished blooming, the stem can be trimmed further down, but regrowth will require a bit more time to produce a second flush.
For obvious reasons, deadheading to promote more bloom only works on plants that have the capability to rebloom. Many of our roses do not have the capability to rebloom. If hips are not desired, then deadheading may be an option to reduce infestation of insects that prefer decaying plant material. Critters particularly fond of spent roses and their fallen petals include earwigs, sow and pill bugs, and cucumber beetles. Similarly, thrips can find a home in spent blossoms.
If left to its own desires, a flowering plant would put forth a bloom, the blossom would be fertilized, and the ripening ovary would become a fruit. If the task of reproduction was completed, the plant would expend its energy and nutrients to the developing fruit instead of the production of more flowers.
Deadheading, the removal of spent blossoms with the aim of forcing a plant to rebloom, is our technique for tricking the plant into thinking it has failed in this reproductive process. By removing the blossom before it has had a chance to fully develop a fruit, the plant sends out regrowth hormones, produces a new bloom, and tries again.
Traditionally, rosarians have defined deadheading as the careful removal of the bloom stem down to the first or second, five leaf set (sometimes called a true leaf). I suggest this may not always be the best procedure.
Deadheading remontant (repeat-blooming) roses has multiple functions. Not only will it conserve plant energy and produce more blooms, it will also remove hiding places and food for insects which often become pests in our garden. It may even permit minor improvements in air circulation, thus reducing the potential for fungal diseases.
Learning to deadhead properly is essential to good rose production. So how do we do that?
Two important tips to remember: Barring genetic mutations and certain viral diseases, a bloom stem can be no larger in diameter than the stem from which it grows. Furthermore, the subsequent blooms will be proportionate in size to the stem from which they emerge. This means the further down the stem you cut, the larger the bloom stem and subsequent buds will become, and hence, the longer it will take for the rose to rebloom.
All cuts are best made at an angle away from and slightly above the node. (If cane boring mini-wasps are a problem, you may wish to seal the cut with white glue or a tiny drop of orange shellac. Otherwise, the plant should seal its own cut within a few minutes.) Stem growth will begin from the nodes nearest to the cut. Therefore, the subsequent bloom stem will be slightly smaller than the stem you have just removed. And deciding how far down the stem to make that cut is best determined by using good judgment.
If your rose produces a cluster of blooms, you may want to deadhead further back on the stem. If, however, you are growing a Hybrid Tea and religiously disbud, then deadheading further down the stem should be tempered with how large you expect the second bloom to become and how soon you want the rose to recycle.
So far, we have only talked about modern roses and their close relatives. Many antique and Old Garden roses bloom in clusters from multiple nodes near the terminus of the cane. In this case, trimming the spent clusters rather than finding the true leaf should be your focus. The secondary clusters, those blooming below the terminal cluster, will still be blooming when the primary cluster has finished. After all the clusters have finished blooming, the stem can be trimmed further down, but regrowth will require a bit more time to produce a second flush.
For obvious reasons, deadheading to promote more bloom only works on plants that have the capability to rebloom. Many of our roses do not have the capability to rebloom. If hips are not desired, then deadheading may be an option to reduce infestation of insects that prefer decaying plant material. Critters particularly fond of spent roses and their fallen petals include earwigs, sow and pill bugs, and cucumber beetles. Similarly, thrips can find a home in spent blossoms.
Disbudding Roses for Better Blooms
Disbudding is the early removal of bloom buds. This practice allows the rose to send nutrients to the buds that remain. The result is a more fashionable, larger rose - one more suitable for display.
On Hybrid Tea roses, you'll notice the terminal bud (the one on the very tip of the stem) is the first to form. Shortly after, secondary buds are formed around the terminal bud. Early removal of these secondary buds sends the rose's energy to the terminal bud - producing a larger bloom. The removal of these secondary buds should be done early in their development. It is easily done with the fingers or pair of tweezers.
On roses that produce multiple blooms, like those of Floribundas or Grandifloras, it is the terminal bud that is removed. On these roses, the terminal bud will open first. By the time surrounding blooms form the terminal rose is almost fully blown. The result is a floral spray with a hole in the center. By removing this terminal bud early in its formation, the rose's energy goes toward those that remain. The result is a floral spray that is full -- without the hole in the center.
If you're interested in displaying roses for competition or just producing a nice specimen for the dinner table, try disbudding a few of your roses. I think you'll be pleased with the results.
On Hybrid Tea roses, you'll notice the terminal bud (the one on the very tip of the stem) is the first to form. Shortly after, secondary buds are formed around the terminal bud. Early removal of these secondary buds sends the rose's energy to the terminal bud - producing a larger bloom. The removal of these secondary buds should be done early in their development. It is easily done with the fingers or pair of tweezers.
On roses that produce multiple blooms, like those of Floribundas or Grandifloras, it is the terminal bud that is removed. On these roses, the terminal bud will open first. By the time surrounding blooms form the terminal rose is almost fully blown. The result is a floral spray with a hole in the center. By removing this terminal bud early in its formation, the rose's energy goes toward those that remain. The result is a floral spray that is full -- without the hole in the center.
If you're interested in displaying roses for competition or just producing a nice specimen for the dinner table, try disbudding a few of your roses. I think you'll be pleased with the results.
Rose Pruning Cuts
During Feburary, or when your snow melts, you will begin noticing all that damage from the winters snow and hail storms. You’ll also want to do a bit of shaping on your plants. Making the proper cuts will reduce excessive die-back and the potential for fungal diseases.
rose pruning cut 1
Graphic 1 shows how to make a proper pruning cut. The correct distance from the leaf node to the top of the cut should be about ¼ - ½ in.
rose pruning cut 2
Graphic 2 shows the cut too close to the node — thus causing the node to die and the potential for that portion of the stem to rot.
rose pruning cut 3
Graphic 3 shows the cut made into the node. This can cause problems during irrigation or rain when water droplets remain on the stem and potentially damage or rot the node.
rose pruning cut 4
Graphic 4 shows the cut made too far up the internode. Most plants will experience die back from that point back to the node. Besides being unsightly, this die-back can begin to decay, subsequently damaging the follow-on growth.
Graphic 1 is the correct way to make your pruning cuts. And although sealing the cut is not required on most of our shrub pruning chores, you may want to seal a large wound with white glue to exclude subsequent insect damage if you perform the pruning in late spring. Normally healthy plants will seal their own wounds within 30 minutes.
rose pruning cut 1
Graphic 1 shows how to make a proper pruning cut. The correct distance from the leaf node to the top of the cut should be about ¼ - ½ in.
rose pruning cut 2
Graphic 2 shows the cut too close to the node — thus causing the node to die and the potential for that portion of the stem to rot.
rose pruning cut 3
Graphic 3 shows the cut made into the node. This can cause problems during irrigation or rain when water droplets remain on the stem and potentially damage or rot the node.
rose pruning cut 4
Graphic 4 shows the cut made too far up the internode. Most plants will experience die back from that point back to the node. Besides being unsightly, this die-back can begin to decay, subsequently damaging the follow-on growth.
Graphic 1 is the correct way to make your pruning cuts. And although sealing the cut is not required on most of our shrub pruning chores, you may want to seal a large wound with white glue to exclude subsequent insect damage if you perform the pruning in late spring. Normally healthy plants will seal their own wounds within 30 minutes.
Preparing Rose Garden Soil
Spring is the time to begin thinking about the soil in your rose garden -- either renovating old soil in an existing garden or preparing for a new garden.
The four main elements of good rose soil are inorganic materials, organic materials, water and air. The composition is best described as a loam. By definition, a loam is about 50% pore space, of which half is water and half is air. The remainder of the loam is about 44 to 46% inorganic material and 4 to 6% organic material. The inorganic material is a 3-1-1 ratio (or 60%-20%-20%) of sand, sediment or silt, and clay respectively. The organic material is composed of humus, materials which have naturally decomposed.
Quite honestly, most of us don’t live in a world with perfect loam. We must create it. Here are some pitfalls to watch for when building a quality rose soil.
Use caution when incorporating sand into heavy clay soils. Over time, this sand will settle to form a hard pan below the soil’s surface much as if you were to put a concrete pad under the soil. This will trap water and prevent good drainage.
Use caution when adding organic materials to improve existing soil or create a new loam. Too much organic material will drive soil pH into the acid range, and make insoluble precipitates of many of the nutrients needed for the roses. In acidic soils, limestone may be needed to raise soil pH.
Organic matter must first consume nitrogen before it can decompose. When adding undecomposed organic materials, don’t forget to add some extra nitrogen into the mix. Depending on the material used, this could be anywhere from 1/4 pound to 1 1/2 pounds of nitrogen per 100 pounds of organic material added.
Use caution when using peat moss to the mix. The material is very slow to decompose and can drive soil pH into something akin to a Louisiana bog if used in excess.
When you have completed creating your soil blend, check the drainage. To do that, dig a foot-deep (30 cm) hole and fill it with water. If the water drains out in about 15 minutes, the drainage is great. If it takes longer, you need to improve the soil drainage further. If shorter, you may need to add more organic material to help retain it.
In tight clay soils, consider double digging the bed. This is accomplished by digging out the soil to a depth of 12 inches (30cm) and placing it off to the side. Then a second 12 inches of soil is dug out and placed to a separate side. The bottom of the dug out area is improved with organic materials and/or gravel.
Then the top layer of soil is placed in the bottom of the dug area, and the second layer of soil is placed on the top of that -- essentially flipping the first two feet of soil. As each layer is reinstalled, be sure to include soil loosening agents and organic matter.
I've had to do this procedure on many occasion. It ain't fun, but the results are terrific!
The four main elements of good rose soil are inorganic materials, organic materials, water and air. The composition is best described as a loam. By definition, a loam is about 50% pore space, of which half is water and half is air. The remainder of the loam is about 44 to 46% inorganic material and 4 to 6% organic material. The inorganic material is a 3-1-1 ratio (or 60%-20%-20%) of sand, sediment or silt, and clay respectively. The organic material is composed of humus, materials which have naturally decomposed.
Quite honestly, most of us don’t live in a world with perfect loam. We must create it. Here are some pitfalls to watch for when building a quality rose soil.
Use caution when incorporating sand into heavy clay soils. Over time, this sand will settle to form a hard pan below the soil’s surface much as if you were to put a concrete pad under the soil. This will trap water and prevent good drainage.
Use caution when adding organic materials to improve existing soil or create a new loam. Too much organic material will drive soil pH into the acid range, and make insoluble precipitates of many of the nutrients needed for the roses. In acidic soils, limestone may be needed to raise soil pH.
Organic matter must first consume nitrogen before it can decompose. When adding undecomposed organic materials, don’t forget to add some extra nitrogen into the mix. Depending on the material used, this could be anywhere from 1/4 pound to 1 1/2 pounds of nitrogen per 100 pounds of organic material added.
Use caution when using peat moss to the mix. The material is very slow to decompose and can drive soil pH into something akin to a Louisiana bog if used in excess.
When you have completed creating your soil blend, check the drainage. To do that, dig a foot-deep (30 cm) hole and fill it with water. If the water drains out in about 15 minutes, the drainage is great. If it takes longer, you need to improve the soil drainage further. If shorter, you may need to add more organic material to help retain it.
In tight clay soils, consider double digging the bed. This is accomplished by digging out the soil to a depth of 12 inches (30cm) and placing it off to the side. Then a second 12 inches of soil is dug out and placed to a separate side. The bottom of the dug out area is improved with organic materials and/or gravel.
Then the top layer of soil is placed in the bottom of the dug area, and the second layer of soil is placed on the top of that -- essentially flipping the first two feet of soil. As each layer is reinstalled, be sure to include soil loosening agents and organic matter.
I've had to do this procedure on many occasion. It ain't fun, but the results are terrific!
Tree Roses - Standards
Tree Roses are more properly called Rose Standards – a term believed to come from Victorian Europe when such techniques were commonly used in the rose gardens of nobles. Typically, the central cane, onto which the hybrid rose is grafted, is 32 to 36 inches long. (Miniature rose standards may be grafted onto shorter canes of about 24 inches. These are sometimes marketed as patio tree roses.)
A graft is made to a rootstock at the bottom of the central cane. Another graft is made at the top of the cane to form the hybrid. The central cane (or standard) is usually supported by a stake.
I have grown and installed many rose standards in the last 40 plus years, but quite frankly, they tend to be more trouble than they are worth in my opinion.
Here in the South, we must not only concern ourselves with the normal pests and diseases found among roses, we must also worry about strong sun and strong, desiccating winds. With standards, sunscald on canes is a very serious problem. We typically tie the support stake on the south side of the cane to help shade it from our summer sun.
In winter, we commonly cover our modern rose bud unions with mulch to protect them during hard freezes. With a rose standard, this is almost impossible unless a wire cage is created around the rose and filled with mulch or leaves during the coldest portions of winter. The alternative in northern zones is to partially uproot the rose, and lay it into a trench dug alongside the plant. The trench is subsequently filled with soil and mulch. Any time you uproot a rose, you impede its growth and place it under stress. When roses undergo stress, diseases and pests are soon to follow... meaning more pesticides and more work. Rose Trees Standards Pruning is also more important when growing rose standards. As you might expect, pruning is always important when changing the natural form of any plant or tree. Improperly pruning standards not only exacerbates pests and diseases, as it does with any rose, it may also create too much top and not enough bottom – thereby snapping or cracking the central cane. On some hybrids, it may be necessary to provide two or three support stakes until such time as the central cane becomes thick enough to support the weight of the grafted rose.
All of that said, rose standards can make a wonderful addition to the garden. If you are willing to spend the time with them, they can add not only color but also structure and height to your garden as well.
A graft is made to a rootstock at the bottom of the central cane. Another graft is made at the top of the cane to form the hybrid. The central cane (or standard) is usually supported by a stake.
I have grown and installed many rose standards in the last 40 plus years, but quite frankly, they tend to be more trouble than they are worth in my opinion.
Here in the South, we must not only concern ourselves with the normal pests and diseases found among roses, we must also worry about strong sun and strong, desiccating winds. With standards, sunscald on canes is a very serious problem. We typically tie the support stake on the south side of the cane to help shade it from our summer sun.
In winter, we commonly cover our modern rose bud unions with mulch to protect them during hard freezes. With a rose standard, this is almost impossible unless a wire cage is created around the rose and filled with mulch or leaves during the coldest portions of winter. The alternative in northern zones is to partially uproot the rose, and lay it into a trench dug alongside the plant. The trench is subsequently filled with soil and mulch. Any time you uproot a rose, you impede its growth and place it under stress. When roses undergo stress, diseases and pests are soon to follow... meaning more pesticides and more work. Rose Trees Standards Pruning is also more important when growing rose standards. As you might expect, pruning is always important when changing the natural form of any plant or tree. Improperly pruning standards not only exacerbates pests and diseases, as it does with any rose, it may also create too much top and not enough bottom – thereby snapping or cracking the central cane. On some hybrids, it may be necessary to provide two or three support stakes until such time as the central cane becomes thick enough to support the weight of the grafted rose.
All of that said, rose standards can make a wonderful addition to the garden. If you are willing to spend the time with them, they can add not only color but also structure and height to your garden as well.
pH and Your Rose Soil
A soil test is essential to planning for that new garden or changing one to accommodate new conditions. At the least, a test of the soil's pH is necessary to determine the health and vitality of the ground into which you plan to invest your landscape dollars.
Simply put, pH is a chemical term used to express hydrogen ionization in water. The term refers to potential hydrogen and indicates the breakdown of water (H2O), normally a stable molecule, into a positively-charged hydrogen ion and a negatively-charged hydrogen-oxygen molecule (HO).
The soil's acidity or alkalinity is determined by this ionization. It occurs when the various minerals and organic materials combine with water molecules forcing the soil to change its properties.
Luster Leaf 1817 Rapitest Mini Soil pH/Moisture Tester
We measure this ionization on a scale from 0 to 14. Neutral soils are said to have a pH of 7, or midway up the scale. Acid soils are those with a pH of less than 7, and alkaline soils are those with a pH above 7.
Soils with an extremely low pH – very acid soils – are said to be sour. Conversely, soils with a high pH are said to be sweet.
So much for the scientific jargon. What is important to you is the knowledge that pH directly affects your soils health. And your soils health, in turn, directly affects your plants health. And finally, your plants health directly affects its susceptibility to disease and insects, which may require you to apply pesticides which, in turn, may directly affect your health and the environment!
Most plants will not tolerate a soil with extremes in pH. The reason for this intolerance is because pH affects the release of essential elements necessary for the plant’s growth and vitality.
Nitrogen (chemical symbol N) the element we hear about most often. It is the primary element that affects productivity of plant life. That is, it is directly responsible for vegetative growth in plants. Without nitrogen, the plants leaves lack their lush green color and growth is stunted. In soils with very low or very high pH, nitrogen is trapped – a condition most plants cannot tolerate.
Phosphorous (P) is essential for strong roots, flower and fruit development, and resistance to disease. It too can be trapped in soils that are excessively out of neutral in pH. Recent tests have shown many soils have excessive amounts of phosphorous that has accumulated by excessive application of synthetic fertilizers onto tight clay soils. One of the reasons for this accumulation is that these normally high pH soils prevent the plant from using all the phosphorous that is available.
Potassium (K) is the third important element in soil health. Most often, plants us the form of potassium known as potash or potassium oxide (K2O). Potassium is essential to the plant's ability to create sugars. It is also essential to the plants capacity to resist disease, survive cold temperatures, and provide drought protection. It is less susceptible to variations in soil pH, but can be significantly trapped when soils are at their extremes in alkalinity or acidity.
Lesser know elements essential to plant vitality are calcium, magnesium, manganese, iron and boron.
Calcium (Ca) we think of as bone material – found in milk and limestone. Actually, calcium is a metal and extremely important to plants for its ability to neutralize toxic acids formed in their metabolic processes. It also serves as the building block in plant proteins and cells, and assists in the balance of magnesium within the plant's growth cycle. In very low pH soils, calcium is neutralized and plants can suffer toxic shock.
Magnesium (Mg) is essential to photosynthesis in plants. It is the main molecule in chlorophyll, the green coloring in green plants! Photosynthesis is the process by which plants use the sun's energy to create carbohydrates. Without magnesium, plant leaves turn yellow (usually at the bottom of the shrub) and soon die. Magnesium usability is limited to a narrow range in soil pH. Even slightly acid soils will inhibit its usefulness.
Manganese (Mn) is a micronutrient element. That means not very much is needed for plant health. But it is needed! Without manganese, growth of the plant is stunted. That's because this element is the catalyst to make the other elements work. The problem with manganese is its lack of availability in highly alkaline soils.
Iron (Fe) gets a lot of press. Ever wonder why? Like magnesium, iron is essential to the photosynthetic and hydrocarbon production process. Without iron, the plant is said to have iron chlorosis which manifests itself as yellowish leaves and dark green veins. Most soils have plenty of iron, but it's in an insoluble form. Soils in the alkaline range can not release the iron. And that is where many of our soils tend to be... too alkaline. The unknowing gardener (unlike you) spends a great deal of money adding soluble iron to the lawn and garden; thus curing the symptom but not treating the cause... high soil pH.
Boron (B) is another one of those must have micronutrients... not much must but definitely a must have! Boron is essential to virtually every function within the plant's metabolism, its cell growth and division, and reproduction. Ever wonder why your apples have corky centers or why your celery has cracked stems? It's a lack of boron! And like iron, high pH soils trap boron.
Okay. So what is the best way to insure your plants get these elements? The answer is simple: For most of your landscape needs, a neutral to slightly acid pH will ensure these eight essential elements are available. And what is the best way to maintain this pH? With appropriate amounts of organic materials and frequent soil tests.
Luster Leaf 1601 Rapitest Soil Test Kit
You can perform your own soil test, of course. Kits are available wherever garden products are sold or you can find them on the web. The chart above will assist you in determining the nutrients available at a given pH. And remember: The best defense against pests and diseases is a well balanced, organically improved soil.
Note: pH is measured in gram atoms per liter. As stated by Walter Reeves, Georgia Agricultural Extension Service, the p in pH is an arithmetic operator just like + or -. p stands for the negative logarithm of the concentration of the following element i.e. hydrogen. For example, an acid condition of 5.0 indicates 0.00001 or 1 x 10-5 gram atoms of hydrogen ions in a liter of solution.
Simply put, pH is a chemical term used to express hydrogen ionization in water. The term refers to potential hydrogen and indicates the breakdown of water (H2O), normally a stable molecule, into a positively-charged hydrogen ion and a negatively-charged hydrogen-oxygen molecule (HO).
The soil's acidity or alkalinity is determined by this ionization. It occurs when the various minerals and organic materials combine with water molecules forcing the soil to change its properties.
Luster Leaf 1817 Rapitest Mini Soil pH/Moisture Tester
We measure this ionization on a scale from 0 to 14. Neutral soils are said to have a pH of 7, or midway up the scale. Acid soils are those with a pH of less than 7, and alkaline soils are those with a pH above 7.
Soils with an extremely low pH – very acid soils – are said to be sour. Conversely, soils with a high pH are said to be sweet.
So much for the scientific jargon. What is important to you is the knowledge that pH directly affects your soils health. And your soils health, in turn, directly affects your plants health. And finally, your plants health directly affects its susceptibility to disease and insects, which may require you to apply pesticides which, in turn, may directly affect your health and the environment!
Most plants will not tolerate a soil with extremes in pH. The reason for this intolerance is because pH affects the release of essential elements necessary for the plant’s growth and vitality.
Nitrogen (chemical symbol N) the element we hear about most often. It is the primary element that affects productivity of plant life. That is, it is directly responsible for vegetative growth in plants. Without nitrogen, the plants leaves lack their lush green color and growth is stunted. In soils with very low or very high pH, nitrogen is trapped – a condition most plants cannot tolerate.
Phosphorous (P) is essential for strong roots, flower and fruit development, and resistance to disease. It too can be trapped in soils that are excessively out of neutral in pH. Recent tests have shown many soils have excessive amounts of phosphorous that has accumulated by excessive application of synthetic fertilizers onto tight clay soils. One of the reasons for this accumulation is that these normally high pH soils prevent the plant from using all the phosphorous that is available.
Potassium (K) is the third important element in soil health. Most often, plants us the form of potassium known as potash or potassium oxide (K2O). Potassium is essential to the plant's ability to create sugars. It is also essential to the plants capacity to resist disease, survive cold temperatures, and provide drought protection. It is less susceptible to variations in soil pH, but can be significantly trapped when soils are at their extremes in alkalinity or acidity.
Lesser know elements essential to plant vitality are calcium, magnesium, manganese, iron and boron.
Calcium (Ca) we think of as bone material – found in milk and limestone. Actually, calcium is a metal and extremely important to plants for its ability to neutralize toxic acids formed in their metabolic processes. It also serves as the building block in plant proteins and cells, and assists in the balance of magnesium within the plant's growth cycle. In very low pH soils, calcium is neutralized and plants can suffer toxic shock.
Magnesium (Mg) is essential to photosynthesis in plants. It is the main molecule in chlorophyll, the green coloring in green plants! Photosynthesis is the process by which plants use the sun's energy to create carbohydrates. Without magnesium, plant leaves turn yellow (usually at the bottom of the shrub) and soon die. Magnesium usability is limited to a narrow range in soil pH. Even slightly acid soils will inhibit its usefulness.
Manganese (Mn) is a micronutrient element. That means not very much is needed for plant health. But it is needed! Without manganese, growth of the plant is stunted. That's because this element is the catalyst to make the other elements work. The problem with manganese is its lack of availability in highly alkaline soils.
Iron (Fe) gets a lot of press. Ever wonder why? Like magnesium, iron is essential to the photosynthetic and hydrocarbon production process. Without iron, the plant is said to have iron chlorosis which manifests itself as yellowish leaves and dark green veins. Most soils have plenty of iron, but it's in an insoluble form. Soils in the alkaline range can not release the iron. And that is where many of our soils tend to be... too alkaline. The unknowing gardener (unlike you) spends a great deal of money adding soluble iron to the lawn and garden; thus curing the symptom but not treating the cause... high soil pH.
Boron (B) is another one of those must have micronutrients... not much must but definitely a must have! Boron is essential to virtually every function within the plant's metabolism, its cell growth and division, and reproduction. Ever wonder why your apples have corky centers or why your celery has cracked stems? It's a lack of boron! And like iron, high pH soils trap boron.
Okay. So what is the best way to insure your plants get these elements? The answer is simple: For most of your landscape needs, a neutral to slightly acid pH will ensure these eight essential elements are available. And what is the best way to maintain this pH? With appropriate amounts of organic materials and frequent soil tests.
Luster Leaf 1601 Rapitest Soil Test Kit
You can perform your own soil test, of course. Kits are available wherever garden products are sold or you can find them on the web. The chart above will assist you in determining the nutrients available at a given pH. And remember: The best defense against pests and diseases is a well balanced, organically improved soil.
Note: pH is measured in gram atoms per liter. As stated by Walter Reeves, Georgia Agricultural Extension Service, the p in pH is an arithmetic operator just like + or -. p stands for the negative logarithm of the concentration of the following element i.e. hydrogen. For example, an acid condition of 5.0 indicates 0.00001 or 1 x 10-5 gram atoms of hydrogen ions in a liter of solution.
Feed Your Roses The Best
Organic amendments, such as compost and composted manure, make ideal rose food because they decompose gradually and build soil. Apply these nutritious foods (a 1 gallon bucket of a dry amendment or a blend of several; 1 gallon of liquid foods) by working them into the soil around each plant in April and July:
Alfalfa meal: contains basic nutrients and a growth regulator; roses love it.
Cottonseed Meal: High in nitrogen; acidifies soil.
Fish emulsion: Liquid nutrient rich food that promotes green foliage, vigorous roots, large blooms and healthy soil.
Seaweed products: Dry or liquid forms contain plant hormones that boost growth and green foliage.
Banana peels: Add potassium for strong canes and overall vigor.
Epson sault: Provides magnesium for healthy development and lush green growth.
Alfalfa meal: contains basic nutrients and a growth regulator; roses love it.
Cottonseed Meal: High in nitrogen; acidifies soil.
Fish emulsion: Liquid nutrient rich food that promotes green foliage, vigorous roots, large blooms and healthy soil.
Seaweed products: Dry or liquid forms contain plant hormones that boost growth and green foliage.
Banana peels: Add potassium for strong canes and overall vigor.
Epson sault: Provides magnesium for healthy development and lush green growth.
Rose Fungus
I receive a lot of questions about plant fungal diseases. Once the rainy season is over and folks begin to use their irrigation systems in earnest, fungus happens. Usually, these questions center around rose fungus, but fungal diseases occur on a variety of plants. Early summer is when fungus most commonly appears on roses and rose related plants like photinias, fruit trees and pyracantha. Non-rose family trees and shrubs to commonly get fungal diseases are magnolia, holly and viburnum.
Many gardeners discover black or brown spots on the plant’s leaves. Usually, these spots are surrounded by a yellow or tan colored halo. On roses, this disease is called Blackspot. Although this is a specific pathogen to the Rose Family, the term and its identification can be equally applied to other trees and shrubs, as well.
Other common fungal diseases include Powdery Mildew - a grey or white flocking appearing on new growth buds and stems. In coastal areas like the Pacific Northwest and southeast Atlantic states, rose Rust is also common. This disease appears as tiny rust colored dots and splotches along stems and the underside of leaves. And reports of Downy Mildew along the Gulf Coast have indicated this fungal pest may be destroying many gardens. Downy mildew appears similar to blackspot, but infected leaves develop irregular purplish-red spots. Eventually the leaves turn yellow. When defoliation occurs, leaf drop will start at the top of the shrub instead of the bottom as with blackspot
By far, however, blackspot and powdery mildew are our most common fungal diseases. Optimal conditions for blackspot are 64° - 75°F (18° - 24°C) with relative humidities around 95%, and the spores must be wetted continuously for several hours. For powdery mildew, optimal conditions are 81°F (27°C) during the day and 61°F (16°C) during the night with relative humidities anywhere from 40% - 70% during the day and 95% - 99% during the night. Although these are optimal conditions, most experienced gardeners know that fungi can cause a lot of damage even in less than optimal conditions.
Garlic GP Rose Fungicide Concentrate
The reason why fungal development is so prevalent this time of year is heavy rains and frequent irrigation soak the soil and surrounding mulch; wetting the fungal spores. The water droplets falling onto the soil also splatter dormant fungal spores back onto the plant. (Although some of the spores also hide in cracks and crevices on the shrub itself.) Once it quits raining or one quits irrigating, the leaves partially dry, the relative humidities increase as the moisture begins to evaporate, and the spore's haustorium (fungal "root") finds entry into the leaf’s stomata (leaf pore). Viola! Blackspot! Powdery Mildew! Downy Mildew! Rust!
Green Light 07924 Rose Defense II - 24 oz Spray
Controlling fungus in the garden is easy. For non-food ornamental plants, shrubs and trees, I recommend using Rose Defense™ by Green Light Co. This whole neem oil product is not only rated for fungal diseases, it will control spider mites and pest insects, as well. And it will do all three chores without harming beneficial insects. For food crops, Green Light has come out with another whole neem oil product called Fruit, Nut & Vegetable Spray!
Many gardeners discover black or brown spots on the plant’s leaves. Usually, these spots are surrounded by a yellow or tan colored halo. On roses, this disease is called Blackspot. Although this is a specific pathogen to the Rose Family, the term and its identification can be equally applied to other trees and shrubs, as well.
Other common fungal diseases include Powdery Mildew - a grey or white flocking appearing on new growth buds and stems. In coastal areas like the Pacific Northwest and southeast Atlantic states, rose Rust is also common. This disease appears as tiny rust colored dots and splotches along stems and the underside of leaves. And reports of Downy Mildew along the Gulf Coast have indicated this fungal pest may be destroying many gardens. Downy mildew appears similar to blackspot, but infected leaves develop irregular purplish-red spots. Eventually the leaves turn yellow. When defoliation occurs, leaf drop will start at the top of the shrub instead of the bottom as with blackspot
By far, however, blackspot and powdery mildew are our most common fungal diseases. Optimal conditions for blackspot are 64° - 75°F (18° - 24°C) with relative humidities around 95%, and the spores must be wetted continuously for several hours. For powdery mildew, optimal conditions are 81°F (27°C) during the day and 61°F (16°C) during the night with relative humidities anywhere from 40% - 70% during the day and 95% - 99% during the night. Although these are optimal conditions, most experienced gardeners know that fungi can cause a lot of damage even in less than optimal conditions.
Garlic GP Rose Fungicide Concentrate
The reason why fungal development is so prevalent this time of year is heavy rains and frequent irrigation soak the soil and surrounding mulch; wetting the fungal spores. The water droplets falling onto the soil also splatter dormant fungal spores back onto the plant. (Although some of the spores also hide in cracks and crevices on the shrub itself.) Once it quits raining or one quits irrigating, the leaves partially dry, the relative humidities increase as the moisture begins to evaporate, and the spore's haustorium (fungal "root") finds entry into the leaf’s stomata (leaf pore). Viola! Blackspot! Powdery Mildew! Downy Mildew! Rust!
Green Light 07924 Rose Defense II - 24 oz Spray
Controlling fungus in the garden is easy. For non-food ornamental plants, shrubs and trees, I recommend using Rose Defense™ by Green Light Co. This whole neem oil product is not only rated for fungal diseases, it will control spider mites and pest insects, as well. And it will do all three chores without harming beneficial insects. For food crops, Green Light has come out with another whole neem oil product called Fruit, Nut & Vegetable Spray!
Rose Growing the Easy Way
Roses are probably the most misunderstood and undervalued plants in the modern landscape. Most people seem to believe that all garden roses are troublesome, frail plants that need to be pampered and fussed over with weekly sprays and frequent fertilizing. While this can be true for the devoted, exhibitor, it simply does not have to be the case for the average gardener like myself who likes to look at pretty flowers. I grow over 400 roses of all types in my garden with an absolute minimum of fuss. Most of the time is actually spent cutting roses for friends, family and people just walking through the garden.
If you are new to roses, it would be a good idea to become vaguely familiar with the many different types:
Hybrid Teas: This is the flower that everyone pictures when we think about what a rose should look like. The classic spiral centre and individual long stem make this the most popular of the rose classes. The modern hybrid tea can be an excellent garden plant, as breeders are concentrating on improving disease resistance and overall garden performance. Many people believe that fragrance has been bred out of the modern rose, but there are many excellent tea roses with strong perfumes and more being introduced each year. Rose breeders realize that people still want fragrance in their gardens. Hybrid Teas are great for the formal garden, but should not be limited to this use. If you don't want be bothered with fussing about roses, be sure to seek the advice of an experienced rose grower who can advise you on the healthy and hardy varieties for your climate.
Climbing Roses: The modern climber is usually a repeat bloomer and grows around 10 to 12 feet tall or wide. There are so many different types available that it's hard to describe them in one paragraph. Let me just say that they are the anchor plants of my garden and definitley the favorite plants of visitors.
Floribundas: Commonly called cluster flowered roses. These come in many shapes and colours. Like the Hybrid Teas, many varieties have excellent perfume, combined with unmatched flower power. Bloom shape can be ruffled and informal or high centred like the HTs. Floribundas are generally considered to be excellent landscape plants, providing bloom from June to Hard Frost. Most varieties grow from 2 to 4 feet tall, but there are a few large ones in this class, ( the Americans call the big ones Grandifloras). Several modern varieties are capable of having over 50 blooms at the same time, with only a short rest in between the repeat cycle. If you're looking for roses that are well mannered and provide armloads of cut flowers, try planting a few floribundas.
Old Garden and Shrub roses: These two classes are roses are separate from one another but have similar growth habits. The shrub rose are without question the most underrated plant in the landscape. It's a shame that more people haven't taken the time to familiarize themselves with this group of plants. Shrub roses are a huge part of the rose family with growth habits varying from low ground cover types to large impenetrable hedge types. I have seen a few cities and parks make use of the mediland shrub roses, but with so many types available for the home gardener it's a wonder that more are not sold in nurseries. The shrub type roses are usually very winter hardy and healthy, with the Rugosa's being completely disease free. Some of the shrubs have an added bonus of colourful fall hip displays . If you're the type of gardener who wants a lot of bang for you buck, then this is the type of rose for you.
Mini roses: A really fascinating group of roses with all the characteristics of large rose reduced to mini proportions. You can even find miniature climbing roses with smaller flowers and leaves growing to about 7 feet tall. Most types grow about 14 inches high, are everblooming and come in every colour except true blue or black. These plants are not house plants, but will flourish in any home garden with minimal care.
Now that you're familiar with the various types of roses, lets get on with the best kept secret on the web, "How to grow Roses the Easy Way".
As with many types of plants, variety is extremely important if you want to be a successful rose gardener. There are many hundreds of red roses on the market at any given time but only a few that are best suited for our climate and soil types. Try to find out what the best ones are for your area and then buy a #1 plant from a reputable nursery. Two for one roses rarely amount to much, especially when planted late in the season.
Roses are best planted in the fall or early Spring. Dormant plants are preferred over fully leafed out plants except for container grown and mini roses. Mini roses are usually purchased fully leafed out and best planted when the weather begins to warm in April or May. If you are transplanting an established rose bush, wait until fall or early spring when the plant is dormant, and remember to give it a judicious pruning.
Site and exposure requirements depend on the type of rose. Usually 5 to 6 hours of sun is preferred for most roses but there are a few shrubs, climbers and Rugosa types that will grow in more shaded situations. If you must choose between morning or afternoon sunshine, take the earlier option. Early morning sun will dry off the leaves, helping to prevent mildew and blackspot. Roses will tolerate a windy exposed site provided that hardy varieties are chosen or a winter mulch is applied to protect from harsh winter conditions.
Step By Step Planting
1. Dig an appropriate sized hole for the root ball, loosening surrounding soil. Usually a 2ft by 2ft hole for large roses and a 1 foot hole for minis.
2. Add some compost or well rotted manure to the hole plus a handful of bone meal. Mix gently and taste ( just kidding). Spread the roots over this mixture positioning the crown at the soil level or slightly below, and refill around the roots with more of your good mixture. Firm the plant and water well. Water is really the secret in helping a rose or any plant get off to a good start in life. Remember to water a new plant often, especially if the weather turns hot.
Fertilizing
This is the really easy part of rose growing. The first and most important type of rose food is plain old water. A rose that is well watered throughout the summer will grow far better than one that's treated to loads of chemical rose foods but little water. I use organic fertilizer outside with great success. Seakelp is excellent as are fish fertilizers and Canola meal. Many people like the all purpose rose foods available in most garden centres. Try not to get to hung up on stuffing your rose plant full of rose foods, and apply only a small handful about every six weeks if you remember. Fertilizer should not be applied after July 15 , as the plants need to use up what's in the soil and 'harden up' for winter. If all of this sounds too confusing, just throw a handful down before and after the first bloom, and your sure to get pretty roses.
Pests & Diseases
The old saying "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" certainly holds true here. Planting a rose in good soil with plenty of sunshine and air circulation is your first and most important defense against insect and disease problems. Mildew and Blackspot are the two most troublesome problems but with a little effort can be easily controlled. If you don't want to spray fungicides at all, then be sure to plant disease- free roses like the Rugosas or one of the healthiest of the others. Strip off all the leaves before your rose begins to regrow in the spring and watch for any sign of trouble.
Most home gardeners can grow great roses without the use of insecticides. Aphids are easily washed off a plant or are soon eaten up by beneficial insects in a healthy garden. Other insects can be picked off or given the hose treatment. Spider mites are a real problem for people who spray often, but seldom bother the organic garden. When it comes to insects and disease, roses are truly highly over- rated, as many other types of plants from tomatoes to carrots have their troubles but we seem to demand perfection from our roses. Try not to be to concerned about the odd spoiled leaf but take reasonable precautions against bad outbreaks.
I have often wondered why people make such a fuss over growing roses and worry about the insects and diseases that could strike, and miss all the fun. I guess roses are just one of those plants that exude such majestic beauty, that we assume they must be difficult to cultivate. In my few short years of growing roses I have learned two things: some people just love complaining about roses, while others just love roses.
If you are new to roses, it would be a good idea to become vaguely familiar with the many different types:
Hybrid Teas: This is the flower that everyone pictures when we think about what a rose should look like. The classic spiral centre and individual long stem make this the most popular of the rose classes. The modern hybrid tea can be an excellent garden plant, as breeders are concentrating on improving disease resistance and overall garden performance. Many people believe that fragrance has been bred out of the modern rose, but there are many excellent tea roses with strong perfumes and more being introduced each year. Rose breeders realize that people still want fragrance in their gardens. Hybrid Teas are great for the formal garden, but should not be limited to this use. If you don't want be bothered with fussing about roses, be sure to seek the advice of an experienced rose grower who can advise you on the healthy and hardy varieties for your climate.
Climbing Roses: The modern climber is usually a repeat bloomer and grows around 10 to 12 feet tall or wide. There are so many different types available that it's hard to describe them in one paragraph. Let me just say that they are the anchor plants of my garden and definitley the favorite plants of visitors.
Floribundas: Commonly called cluster flowered roses. These come in many shapes and colours. Like the Hybrid Teas, many varieties have excellent perfume, combined with unmatched flower power. Bloom shape can be ruffled and informal or high centred like the HTs. Floribundas are generally considered to be excellent landscape plants, providing bloom from June to Hard Frost. Most varieties grow from 2 to 4 feet tall, but there are a few large ones in this class, ( the Americans call the big ones Grandifloras). Several modern varieties are capable of having over 50 blooms at the same time, with only a short rest in between the repeat cycle. If you're looking for roses that are well mannered and provide armloads of cut flowers, try planting a few floribundas.
Old Garden and Shrub roses: These two classes are roses are separate from one another but have similar growth habits. The shrub rose are without question the most underrated plant in the landscape. It's a shame that more people haven't taken the time to familiarize themselves with this group of plants. Shrub roses are a huge part of the rose family with growth habits varying from low ground cover types to large impenetrable hedge types. I have seen a few cities and parks make use of the mediland shrub roses, but with so many types available for the home gardener it's a wonder that more are not sold in nurseries. The shrub type roses are usually very winter hardy and healthy, with the Rugosa's being completely disease free. Some of the shrubs have an added bonus of colourful fall hip displays . If you're the type of gardener who wants a lot of bang for you buck, then this is the type of rose for you.
Mini roses: A really fascinating group of roses with all the characteristics of large rose reduced to mini proportions. You can even find miniature climbing roses with smaller flowers and leaves growing to about 7 feet tall. Most types grow about 14 inches high, are everblooming and come in every colour except true blue or black. These plants are not house plants, but will flourish in any home garden with minimal care.
Now that you're familiar with the various types of roses, lets get on with the best kept secret on the web, "How to grow Roses the Easy Way".
As with many types of plants, variety is extremely important if you want to be a successful rose gardener. There are many hundreds of red roses on the market at any given time but only a few that are best suited for our climate and soil types. Try to find out what the best ones are for your area and then buy a #1 plant from a reputable nursery. Two for one roses rarely amount to much, especially when planted late in the season.
Roses are best planted in the fall or early Spring. Dormant plants are preferred over fully leafed out plants except for container grown and mini roses. Mini roses are usually purchased fully leafed out and best planted when the weather begins to warm in April or May. If you are transplanting an established rose bush, wait until fall or early spring when the plant is dormant, and remember to give it a judicious pruning.
Site and exposure requirements depend on the type of rose. Usually 5 to 6 hours of sun is preferred for most roses but there are a few shrubs, climbers and Rugosa types that will grow in more shaded situations. If you must choose between morning or afternoon sunshine, take the earlier option. Early morning sun will dry off the leaves, helping to prevent mildew and blackspot. Roses will tolerate a windy exposed site provided that hardy varieties are chosen or a winter mulch is applied to protect from harsh winter conditions.
Step By Step Planting
1. Dig an appropriate sized hole for the root ball, loosening surrounding soil. Usually a 2ft by 2ft hole for large roses and a 1 foot hole for minis.
2. Add some compost or well rotted manure to the hole plus a handful of bone meal. Mix gently and taste ( just kidding). Spread the roots over this mixture positioning the crown at the soil level or slightly below, and refill around the roots with more of your good mixture. Firm the plant and water well. Water is really the secret in helping a rose or any plant get off to a good start in life. Remember to water a new plant often, especially if the weather turns hot.
Fertilizing
This is the really easy part of rose growing. The first and most important type of rose food is plain old water. A rose that is well watered throughout the summer will grow far better than one that's treated to loads of chemical rose foods but little water. I use organic fertilizer outside with great success. Seakelp is excellent as are fish fertilizers and Canola meal. Many people like the all purpose rose foods available in most garden centres. Try not to get to hung up on stuffing your rose plant full of rose foods, and apply only a small handful about every six weeks if you remember. Fertilizer should not be applied after July 15 , as the plants need to use up what's in the soil and 'harden up' for winter. If all of this sounds too confusing, just throw a handful down before and after the first bloom, and your sure to get pretty roses.
Pests & Diseases
The old saying "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" certainly holds true here. Planting a rose in good soil with plenty of sunshine and air circulation is your first and most important defense against insect and disease problems. Mildew and Blackspot are the two most troublesome problems but with a little effort can be easily controlled. If you don't want to spray fungicides at all, then be sure to plant disease- free roses like the Rugosas or one of the healthiest of the others. Strip off all the leaves before your rose begins to regrow in the spring and watch for any sign of trouble.
Most home gardeners can grow great roses without the use of insecticides. Aphids are easily washed off a plant or are soon eaten up by beneficial insects in a healthy garden. Other insects can be picked off or given the hose treatment. Spider mites are a real problem for people who spray often, but seldom bother the organic garden. When it comes to insects and disease, roses are truly highly over- rated, as many other types of plants from tomatoes to carrots have their troubles but we seem to demand perfection from our roses. Try not to be to concerned about the odd spoiled leaf but take reasonable precautions against bad outbreaks.
I have often wondered why people make such a fuss over growing roses and worry about the insects and diseases that could strike, and miss all the fun. I guess roses are just one of those plants that exude such majestic beauty, that we assume they must be difficult to cultivate. In my few short years of growing roses I have learned two things: some people just love complaining about roses, while others just love roses.
DISEASE RESISTANT ROSES
The roses that fall into the Modern Rose division with the least pest and disease problems and the most floriferous show of color are the Polyanthas. A very popular member of this group is The Fairy rose, noted for its adaptability to most any garden situation since its introduction in 1932. The Fairy rose grows to 3 - 4 feet (1 meter) tall. The Fairy produces massive clusters of pink blooms on dark green leaves. It is an excellent rose for planting on a mound that focuses the design eye to one pronounced section of your garden. Unfortunately, Polyanthas as a group are weak on fragrance, and The Fairy is no exception.
Another Polyantha noted for its disease resistance is Perle d'Or rose. The Perle d'Or rose grows to 3 - 4 feet (1 meter) tall and produces a salmon colored bloom in large clusters. It performs well in the heat of summer, and is almost continuously in bloom.
No rose is perfect and Polyanthas are not without their limitations. Clotilde Soupert rose, a white with larger than normal blooms for a Polyantha, is infamous for balling in humid weather. This term balling is given to roses that tend to remain closed during high humidity situations such as rainy weather or high irrigation. The bloom tips can turn brown and resemble thrips invasion. When the weather dries, this rose performs well. But springs can be a real challenge.
Another Polyantha noted for its disease resistance is Perle d'Or rose. The Perle d'Or rose grows to 3 - 4 feet (1 meter) tall and produces a salmon colored bloom in large clusters. It performs well in the heat of summer, and is almost continuously in bloom.
No rose is perfect and Polyanthas are not without their limitations. Clotilde Soupert rose, a white with larger than normal blooms for a Polyantha, is infamous for balling in humid weather. This term balling is given to roses that tend to remain closed during high humidity situations such as rainy weather or high irrigation. The bloom tips can turn brown and resemble thrips invasion. When the weather dries, this rose performs well. But springs can be a real challenge.
SPACING ROSES
Correct rose spacing is important for two reasons. Roses need room to grow and bloom, and you need room to tend them. Rose are one of the oldest cultivated flowers, and it is a well known fact that giving them room keeps them happy.
staggered roses
To plant a wide shrub border or hedge, set plants in a staggered row to get best screening effect. If you'd like a tight privacy screen, use 30 inch spacing. If you prefer a hedge that lets breezes through, go to a six foot spacing. Remember also to discuss height and spread with your local nursery.
spacing roses
Plan rose bush beds so that each plant receives maximum light and air. This not only cuts down on disease, it also gives you room for cultivating, pruning and spraying. Bush types require a minimum spacing of two feet, but 30 inches is prefered. Spacing between the plant and edge of bed should be approx. 20 inches.
climbing roses
Climbing roses, especially ramblers, have a long reach. A six foot spacing is a minimum even if you want solid coverage for privacy. But a 10 foot spacing gives a more pleasing open growth pattern and makes tending easier. It also allows horizontal training which will result in better blooms.
staggered roses
To plant a wide shrub border or hedge, set plants in a staggered row to get best screening effect. If you'd like a tight privacy screen, use 30 inch spacing. If you prefer a hedge that lets breezes through, go to a six foot spacing. Remember also to discuss height and spread with your local nursery.
spacing roses
Plan rose bush beds so that each plant receives maximum light and air. This not only cuts down on disease, it also gives you room for cultivating, pruning and spraying. Bush types require a minimum spacing of two feet, but 30 inches is prefered. Spacing between the plant and edge of bed should be approx. 20 inches.
climbing roses
Climbing roses, especially ramblers, have a long reach. A six foot spacing is a minimum even if you want solid coverage for privacy. But a 10 foot spacing gives a more pleasing open growth pattern and makes tending easier. It also allows horizontal training which will result in better blooms.
Roses Language of Love
More than 1.2 billion cut roses are purchased in the U.S. every year. This means (if my third grade math teacher was correct) every man, woman and child in this country should receive 4.8 roses sometime during the year. I haven't received mine yet. Have you?
Hang on! We still have a chance!
The single biggest sales day for The World's Favorite Flower is Valentine's Day. In case you were wondering, Mother's Day is a distant second. That's right! On February 14th, 1.3 million roses will be delivered as a tangible expression of words unspoken. And although other flowers will be delivered, the language of love is still the rose, accounting for almost 40% of all Valentine's Day gift sales.
Although red roses are the color of choice on Valentine's Day, other colors can be given or arranged to create quite a statement.
So how's your rose syntax? Here are some tips that might get you out of the dog house. Be careful, though. The wrong words may just put you into one!
Red roses can really throw you for a loop! According to the American Rose Society, they are the modern day expression of the sender's love and respect. This has not always been the case, however.
In Greek mythology, the red rose represents desire and passion when Aphrodite spills drops of blood onto a white rose while trying to help her wounded lover, Adonis. Throughout ancient Christendom, the red rose symbolizes the blood and agony of the crucifixion of Jesus. In ancient Persian mythology, a nightingale's self-inflicted breast wound turns a white rose red, changing colors because of the bird's egocentricity. And if the petals fall from a fresh cut red rose in an English garden, bad luck soon follows... or so the superstition goes.
Pink roses symbolize grace and gentility in modern rose vocabulary. The pink rose also represents pain, suffering and death in Roman mythology when Apollo turns Rhodanthe into a rose after she unsuccessfully tries to unseat Diana, his sister, as the goddess of the hunt and the protectress of women.
The various tones of pink can mean different things, too. Deep pink roses say thank you by symbolizing gratitude and appreciation, while light pink roses convey admiration and sympathy.
White roses symbolize reverence and humility. In medieval Christian Europe, Mary is represented by a white rose as a symbol of her purity. In Wales, white roses represent innocence and silence, and are often placed on the grave of a young child. In some native American cultures, the white rose symbolizes security and happiness and, hence, is traditionally worn at weddings.
Red and white roses, arranged together or white roses edged in red, speak of unity. The Tudor Rose, a graphic design created by King Henry VII in 1485, is a red rose laid atop a white - symbolizing the unification of the Houses of York and Lancaster and thus ending the War of Roses.
Yellow roses signify joy, gladness and freedom in the modern rose lexicon. In Islamic folklore, however, they symbolize deceit, treachery, and adultery.
If red roses are arranged with yellow roses or blossoms contain both red and yellow coloration, they express gaiety, joviality and happiness.
Orange roses are often a genetic blend of reds and yellows, and therefore represent a blend of symbols -- enthusiasm and desire.
Some roses blend pinks and yellows into beautiful pale tones within the same bloom, signifying sociability and friendship.
All things said, the rose is still the expressive choice of lovers around the world. I'll remember that... when I get my 4.8 this year
Hang on! We still have a chance!
The single biggest sales day for The World's Favorite Flower is Valentine's Day. In case you were wondering, Mother's Day is a distant second. That's right! On February 14th, 1.3 million roses will be delivered as a tangible expression of words unspoken. And although other flowers will be delivered, the language of love is still the rose, accounting for almost 40% of all Valentine's Day gift sales.
Although red roses are the color of choice on Valentine's Day, other colors can be given or arranged to create quite a statement.
So how's your rose syntax? Here are some tips that might get you out of the dog house. Be careful, though. The wrong words may just put you into one!
Red roses can really throw you for a loop! According to the American Rose Society, they are the modern day expression of the sender's love and respect. This has not always been the case, however.
In Greek mythology, the red rose represents desire and passion when Aphrodite spills drops of blood onto a white rose while trying to help her wounded lover, Adonis. Throughout ancient Christendom, the red rose symbolizes the blood and agony of the crucifixion of Jesus. In ancient Persian mythology, a nightingale's self-inflicted breast wound turns a white rose red, changing colors because of the bird's egocentricity. And if the petals fall from a fresh cut red rose in an English garden, bad luck soon follows... or so the superstition goes.
Pink roses symbolize grace and gentility in modern rose vocabulary. The pink rose also represents pain, suffering and death in Roman mythology when Apollo turns Rhodanthe into a rose after she unsuccessfully tries to unseat Diana, his sister, as the goddess of the hunt and the protectress of women.
The various tones of pink can mean different things, too. Deep pink roses say thank you by symbolizing gratitude and appreciation, while light pink roses convey admiration and sympathy.
White roses symbolize reverence and humility. In medieval Christian Europe, Mary is represented by a white rose as a symbol of her purity. In Wales, white roses represent innocence and silence, and are often placed on the grave of a young child. In some native American cultures, the white rose symbolizes security and happiness and, hence, is traditionally worn at weddings.
Red and white roses, arranged together or white roses edged in red, speak of unity. The Tudor Rose, a graphic design created by King Henry VII in 1485, is a red rose laid atop a white - symbolizing the unification of the Houses of York and Lancaster and thus ending the War of Roses.
Yellow roses signify joy, gladness and freedom in the modern rose lexicon. In Islamic folklore, however, they symbolize deceit, treachery, and adultery.
If red roses are arranged with yellow roses or blossoms contain both red and yellow coloration, they express gaiety, joviality and happiness.
Orange roses are often a genetic blend of reds and yellows, and therefore represent a blend of symbols -- enthusiasm and desire.
Some roses blend pinks and yellows into beautiful pale tones within the same bloom, signifying sociability and friendship.
All things said, the rose is still the expressive choice of lovers around the world. I'll remember that... when I get my 4.8 this year
Rust on Rose Leaves
Rust is a fungal disease that seems to be more prevalent in West Coast gardens; it is rarely indicated east of the Rocky Mountains. Rust appears as its name implies, as red-orange spots (raised looking like warts) on undersides of leaves and yellow blotches on top surfaces. Long, narrow rust spots or streaks may also form on young canes. If left on roses, these spots will develop into large groupings of rust ‘warts’ and in autumn they will turn black. Ultimately this disease will cause the entire defoliation of the rose plant.
Rust thrives in cool, moist weather (18 to 21 degrees Celsius, 64 to 69 degrees Fahrenheit), especially in rainy, foggy or misty conditions. This disease will develop on leaf surfaces that remain wet for 4 hours (as can occur during summer fogs, heavy dews or extended rains). Reproduction of rust spores occurs every 10 to 14 days throughout summer. If rust infected leaves are left on the damp ground, insects, rain and wind can spread the disease spores. In these conditions it is imperative to keep an eye on your rose bushes. Any appearance of rust must be dealt with immediately. Remove any affected leaves and bag them or burn them. Do not add the diseased parts to the compost as they will return to haunt your garden the following year when recycled back into the soil. Spray the rose bushes with wettable sulphur (do not use sulphur on days when the temperature exceeds 80 degrees Fahrenheit or 26+ degrees Celsius or you will injure your plants) or fungicidal soap.
One way to combat rust and the other fungal diseases, mildew and blackspot, is to minimize excessively water logged soil around rose plants. Good soil drainage is essential for moisture control; adding organic matter, double digging beds or planting raised beds are effective means in providing a good healthy environment for roses. Also it is best to avoid working in a wet rose garden so as not to help spread rust spores (this is also sound advice regarding minimizing the spread of blackspot and mildew). Try to limit wetting the foliage on rose plants while watering and provide good air circulation between plants by spacing them well apart from one another (planting hybrid teas and smaller rose bushes 3 feet apart and larger rose bushes 4 feet apart). Prune to keep the centers of rose bushes open for air circulation as this will assist in keeping them drier.
Remember that rust spores overwinter on leaves and canes and are distributed by wind and water. A good autumn cleanup will help prevent spores from hiding in your garden throughout winter. If winter ends up being cold and harsh, chances are that rust will be limited, especially if the following summer is hot, conditions not favorable to the disease. Happy gardening!
Rust thrives in cool, moist weather (18 to 21 degrees Celsius, 64 to 69 degrees Fahrenheit), especially in rainy, foggy or misty conditions. This disease will develop on leaf surfaces that remain wet for 4 hours (as can occur during summer fogs, heavy dews or extended rains). Reproduction of rust spores occurs every 10 to 14 days throughout summer. If rust infected leaves are left on the damp ground, insects, rain and wind can spread the disease spores. In these conditions it is imperative to keep an eye on your rose bushes. Any appearance of rust must be dealt with immediately. Remove any affected leaves and bag them or burn them. Do not add the diseased parts to the compost as they will return to haunt your garden the following year when recycled back into the soil. Spray the rose bushes with wettable sulphur (do not use sulphur on days when the temperature exceeds 80 degrees Fahrenheit or 26+ degrees Celsius or you will injure your plants) or fungicidal soap.
One way to combat rust and the other fungal diseases, mildew and blackspot, is to minimize excessively water logged soil around rose plants. Good soil drainage is essential for moisture control; adding organic matter, double digging beds or planting raised beds are effective means in providing a good healthy environment for roses. Also it is best to avoid working in a wet rose garden so as not to help spread rust spores (this is also sound advice regarding minimizing the spread of blackspot and mildew). Try to limit wetting the foliage on rose plants while watering and provide good air circulation between plants by spacing them well apart from one another (planting hybrid teas and smaller rose bushes 3 feet apart and larger rose bushes 4 feet apart). Prune to keep the centers of rose bushes open for air circulation as this will assist in keeping them drier.
Remember that rust spores overwinter on leaves and canes and are distributed by wind and water. A good autumn cleanup will help prevent spores from hiding in your garden throughout winter. If winter ends up being cold and harsh, chances are that rust will be limited, especially if the following summer is hot, conditions not favorable to the disease. Happy gardening!
Mildew
Mildew is a fungal disease, which affects roses. The first signs of powdery mildew appear on young leaves, which hold their color but begin to crinkle. Then small patches of mold appear that develop into spore-bearing fungal filaments on foliage, stems and all other parts of the rose, even the buds (looks like a thin, white powdery substance sitting on growth, which steadily becomes deformed with the spread of the disease). It spreads in white strands, which anchor themselves to the foliage. From there the fungus will draw on the moisture and nutrients within the leaves. As soon as you see the crinkling of young rose leaves be on the watch; the sooner mildew is arrested the better. Mildew can spread thoughout the garden rapidly.
The disease is worst during hot, dry weather with cool, moist nights. Spores are dormant until they get the moisture required to germinate. Once the leaf surface is moist and remains moist (from overhead sprinkling or condensation) for about 3 hours, the mildew spores will begin to germinate. This can occur in damp, shady gardens where air circulation is poor, also where plants are stressed due to overcrowding or dehydration (plants insufficiently watered at the root level are often attacked by mildew). Plants grown in areas with not enough sunlight will produce thinner leaves making them more prone to infection. Also plants deficient in nutrients (especially calcium) have weaker leaf tissue and that makes them more vulnerable to disease.
It is important to keep roses well watered at the root level during hot days and prevent water from getting onto the leaves, especially before nightfall. Providing good air circulation between roses is vital. This helps dry up the roses more quickly. Good pruning methods and generous spacing between rose bushes when planting (generally 3 feet between hybrid teas and 4 feet between larger rose bushes is recommended). Treat dormant plants with lime sulphur in spring and spray with fungicidal soap.
Rose Pharm Organic Insecticidal Soap plus Miticide and Fungicide, 33.8-Fluid Ounce Spray Bottle (Pack of 2)
Once mildew is noticed (keep an eye out for it in the early stages), spray the rose bushes with fungicidal soap or wettable sulphur (both products are readily available at the local nursery). Try to remove any diseased parts and bag and seal, or burn them. Do not compost any diseased parts as the spores will return to haunt your garden when recycled. There are some effective home remedies you can try to help fight mildew and stop it from spreading. The following recipe is also good for fighting blackspot and rust:
Baking Soda Spray:
1 tbsp vegetable oil
1 gallon unchlorinated water
1 tbsp apple cider vinegar
1 tsp Listerine (yes, the famous mouthwash, not mint flavour, just regular)
1 tbsp liquid soap
1 ½ tbsp baking soda
Pump sprayer (large)
Mix the baking soda, soap, Listerine, and oil with 1 cup water. Add the vinegar last so that the mix won’t bubble over. Pour the mixture into the sprayer and add 1 gallon water. Shake to combine. Spray plants thoroughly.
This formulation may need to be reapplied after rain since it tends to wash off. One side benefit to the baking soda spray is that insects don’t love it either!
Some folks have had certain success with stinging nettle spray. It is meant to help plants resist mildew and other diseases such as blackspot and rust. To make: gather 1 pound of stinging nettle plants (use long rubber gloves and wear protective clothing to prevent from being stung!); crush stinging nettle leaves and put into an old burlap sack or pillow case. Submerge the bag in a one-gallon bucket containing unchlorinated water, cover and let sit in a warm place for a week. Strain mixture through cheesecloth or mesh. Dilute liquid stinging nettle concentrate with 5 parts water to 1 part concentrate. Spray this over rose bushes every two weeks.
If mildew persists in the garden, one should consider buying disease resistant varieties. Roses from the Rugosa family are highly recommended, as they are the most resistant to this disease. Happy rose gardening!
The disease is worst during hot, dry weather with cool, moist nights. Spores are dormant until they get the moisture required to germinate. Once the leaf surface is moist and remains moist (from overhead sprinkling or condensation) for about 3 hours, the mildew spores will begin to germinate. This can occur in damp, shady gardens where air circulation is poor, also where plants are stressed due to overcrowding or dehydration (plants insufficiently watered at the root level are often attacked by mildew). Plants grown in areas with not enough sunlight will produce thinner leaves making them more prone to infection. Also plants deficient in nutrients (especially calcium) have weaker leaf tissue and that makes them more vulnerable to disease.
It is important to keep roses well watered at the root level during hot days and prevent water from getting onto the leaves, especially before nightfall. Providing good air circulation between roses is vital. This helps dry up the roses more quickly. Good pruning methods and generous spacing between rose bushes when planting (generally 3 feet between hybrid teas and 4 feet between larger rose bushes is recommended). Treat dormant plants with lime sulphur in spring and spray with fungicidal soap.
Rose Pharm Organic Insecticidal Soap plus Miticide and Fungicide, 33.8-Fluid Ounce Spray Bottle (Pack of 2)
Once mildew is noticed (keep an eye out for it in the early stages), spray the rose bushes with fungicidal soap or wettable sulphur (both products are readily available at the local nursery). Try to remove any diseased parts and bag and seal, or burn them. Do not compost any diseased parts as the spores will return to haunt your garden when recycled. There are some effective home remedies you can try to help fight mildew and stop it from spreading. The following recipe is also good for fighting blackspot and rust:
Baking Soda Spray:
1 tbsp vegetable oil
1 gallon unchlorinated water
1 tbsp apple cider vinegar
1 tsp Listerine (yes, the famous mouthwash, not mint flavour, just regular)
1 tbsp liquid soap
1 ½ tbsp baking soda
Pump sprayer (large)
Mix the baking soda, soap, Listerine, and oil with 1 cup water. Add the vinegar last so that the mix won’t bubble over. Pour the mixture into the sprayer and add 1 gallon water. Shake to combine. Spray plants thoroughly.
This formulation may need to be reapplied after rain since it tends to wash off. One side benefit to the baking soda spray is that insects don’t love it either!
Some folks have had certain success with stinging nettle spray. It is meant to help plants resist mildew and other diseases such as blackspot and rust. To make: gather 1 pound of stinging nettle plants (use long rubber gloves and wear protective clothing to prevent from being stung!); crush stinging nettle leaves and put into an old burlap sack or pillow case. Submerge the bag in a one-gallon bucket containing unchlorinated water, cover and let sit in a warm place for a week. Strain mixture through cheesecloth or mesh. Dilute liquid stinging nettle concentrate with 5 parts water to 1 part concentrate. Spray this over rose bushes every two weeks.
If mildew persists in the garden, one should consider buying disease resistant varieties. Roses from the Rugosa family are highly recommended, as they are the most resistant to this disease. Happy rose gardening!
Blackspot
Blackspot, "Diplocarpon rosae", is a nasty fungus that manifests itself on rose bushes as black spots on leaves progressing to black spots fringed with yellow rings on both sides of the leaves. As they develop the spots enlarge. Eventually, as the disease spreads, the entire leaves will go from green to yellow and then drop to the ground. With time the entire rose bush may become defoliated. Leaves less than two weeks old are the most susceptible to this disease.
Defoliation brought on by blackspot is worst during wet weather, especially humid weather. The fungus becomes active in a wet environment with a temperature of about 24 degrees Celsius (approximately 75 degrees Fahrenheit). It needs about 7 hours of these conditions to germinate and then symptoms will begin to appear on rose foliage within three to ten days. From then on spores are produced every three weeks. If unchecked, blackspot can affect the entire rose garden leaving an unattractive appearance of many ‘bare-naked’ plants. Spores can over winter in the garden so autumn cleanup is crucial otherwise the entire cycle can repeat itself the following spring and summer.
The worst case scenario can be avoided with some preventative measures, a keen eye and diligence. While plants are dormant in spring, spray thoroughly with fungicidal soap and wettable sulphur (both readily available at the local plant nursery). Sulphur is actually a historical remedy used or hundreds of years by farmers for their crops. It definitely has a place in the chemical-free garden. Fungal spores cannot germinate in the sulphur film and thus cannot get a chance to attack the plant. To be effective the sulphur must be on the plant and leaves before the spores land on them. Sulphur washes off in rain and so must be reapplied repeatedly. The product is sold in powder or liquid form and also works well against mildew and rust. Other preventative measures include keeping the leaves dry when watering (try soaker hoses or drip irrigation methods), water in the morning so that foliage has a chance to dry off throughout the day and pruning plants to improve air circulation. Also spacing the plants well when planting will insure good air circulation. It is recommended that hybrid teas and smaller rose bushes be spaced 3 feet apart and larger rose bushes be spaced 4 feet apart from one another.
Once you have discovered that your rose bushes are infected it is best to prune off the damaged parts of the plant and gather the diseased foliage. Dispose of this diseased material in bags or burn it. Do not add to the composter, as the fungus shall only return to haunt you when you recycle the soil back into the garden. It is vital to do an end of season cleanup so the spores will have no where to hide over winter.
After having removed the diseased parts from your rose bushes it is necessary to apply a preventative formula to minimize further attack. Using fungicidal soap or sulphur several times over the course of summer is one solution (especially after rain as these products tend to wash off). There are a few home remedies that have met with some success and are worth trying, especially for those that really do prefer organic garden methods. One is a solution made with baking soda: dissolve 1 teaspoon baking soda in a quart of water, add a few drops of liquid soap to the mix to help it cling better to the foliage, spray infected plants thoroughly. Another unusual remedy for fighting fungal diseases is manure tea. This formulation fights blackspot, as well as mildew and rust, while providing foliar nutrition. Place one gallon of well-composted manure in a 5-gallon bucket and fill with water. Stir the mixture well and let sit in a warm place for three days. Strain the mixture through a cheesecloth or mesh and use the resulting tea to spray disease affected plants (the solids left behind can be applied around the base of the plants as added fertilizer).
Garlic GP Rose Fungicide Concentrate
One way to minimize blackspot damage in the rose garden is to buy disease resistant varieties of roses. There are many books, which offer recommendations and local rose experts are always happy to provide lists of names of good disease resistant roses.
Defoliation brought on by blackspot is worst during wet weather, especially humid weather. The fungus becomes active in a wet environment with a temperature of about 24 degrees Celsius (approximately 75 degrees Fahrenheit). It needs about 7 hours of these conditions to germinate and then symptoms will begin to appear on rose foliage within three to ten days. From then on spores are produced every three weeks. If unchecked, blackspot can affect the entire rose garden leaving an unattractive appearance of many ‘bare-naked’ plants. Spores can over winter in the garden so autumn cleanup is crucial otherwise the entire cycle can repeat itself the following spring and summer.
The worst case scenario can be avoided with some preventative measures, a keen eye and diligence. While plants are dormant in spring, spray thoroughly with fungicidal soap and wettable sulphur (both readily available at the local plant nursery). Sulphur is actually a historical remedy used or hundreds of years by farmers for their crops. It definitely has a place in the chemical-free garden. Fungal spores cannot germinate in the sulphur film and thus cannot get a chance to attack the plant. To be effective the sulphur must be on the plant and leaves before the spores land on them. Sulphur washes off in rain and so must be reapplied repeatedly. The product is sold in powder or liquid form and also works well against mildew and rust. Other preventative measures include keeping the leaves dry when watering (try soaker hoses or drip irrigation methods), water in the morning so that foliage has a chance to dry off throughout the day and pruning plants to improve air circulation. Also spacing the plants well when planting will insure good air circulation. It is recommended that hybrid teas and smaller rose bushes be spaced 3 feet apart and larger rose bushes be spaced 4 feet apart from one another.
Once you have discovered that your rose bushes are infected it is best to prune off the damaged parts of the plant and gather the diseased foliage. Dispose of this diseased material in bags or burn it. Do not add to the composter, as the fungus shall only return to haunt you when you recycle the soil back into the garden. It is vital to do an end of season cleanup so the spores will have no where to hide over winter.
After having removed the diseased parts from your rose bushes it is necessary to apply a preventative formula to minimize further attack. Using fungicidal soap or sulphur several times over the course of summer is one solution (especially after rain as these products tend to wash off). There are a few home remedies that have met with some success and are worth trying, especially for those that really do prefer organic garden methods. One is a solution made with baking soda: dissolve 1 teaspoon baking soda in a quart of water, add a few drops of liquid soap to the mix to help it cling better to the foliage, spray infected plants thoroughly. Another unusual remedy for fighting fungal diseases is manure tea. This formulation fights blackspot, as well as mildew and rust, while providing foliar nutrition. Place one gallon of well-composted manure in a 5-gallon bucket and fill with water. Stir the mixture well and let sit in a warm place for three days. Strain the mixture through a cheesecloth or mesh and use the resulting tea to spray disease affected plants (the solids left behind can be applied around the base of the plants as added fertilizer).
Garlic GP Rose Fungicide Concentrate
One way to minimize blackspot damage in the rose garden is to buy disease resistant varieties of roses. There are many books, which offer recommendations and local rose experts are always happy to provide lists of names of good disease resistant roses.
Rose Diseases
The plant family most bothered by the greatest number of disease problems is the rose family. This family not only consists of the roses we love and care for but also the related trees such as crab apples, flowering pears, cherries, peaches and plums, hawthorns, serviceberries and mountain ash. There have been many diseases catalogued and described in various books, though most rose gardeners will likely never be bothered with the majority of them. However, there are three rose diseases that seem to afflict the rose garden at one time or another:
blackspot
mildew
rust
If these three diseases can be controlled, the rose garden will be generally disease free.
Where you garden and weather conditions have much to do with how severely these fungal diseases will affect your roses. Areas where warm days and cool nights are the norm may offer ideal conditions for some fungal diseases to manifest. Also extended periods of moisture such as summer fogs, heavy dews and high humidity can create ideal conditions for the growth and spread of disease. The gardener can minimize these affects by spacing the roses well thus providing good air circulation. Also limiting excessive watering is very helpful, especially if this takes place in the morning and not in the evening, thus allowing the water on the foliage to dry off more quickly during the day.
There are many new varieties of roses that have been bred for disease resistance. It is worthwhile investing in these. From personal experience, it has been found that if the majority of the roses in the garden are disease resistant the entire garden will be minimally affected by disease. Of course there are the certain particular roses such as heirloom, old fashioned and those that one 'simply must have' due to their fragrance or color or name appeal, that may be disease susceptible. One solution is to isolate and grow this rose away from the others (if the rose garden is in the backyard, plant the rose with disease tendencies in the front yard, for example). This will help minimize the possibility of infecting the rest. Of course special attention needs to be given a rose with disease tendencies, above all keeping the foliage dry...a location with excellent air circulation helps. Try experimenting by moving roses about in the garden (during dormant period) in an effort to find the optimal growing settings.
Finally, if all efforts to prevent the fungal diseases fail and you spot the first telltale signs of trouble; and if you happen to prefer the chemical-free approach to rose gardening, here is a preventative spray you can try:
All Purpose Rose Disease Fighter
1 medium onion, chopped
3 - 4 cloves garlic, crushed
½ Jalapeno pepper, crushed
1½ tsp baking soda
Cheesecloth or fine mesh
Spray bottle
1 or 2 drops dishwashing liquid (or Insecticide soap) to help mixture adhere to foliage
Preparation:
Steep garlic, onion and pepper in 1 quart of warm water for 1 hour.
Strain the mix through the cheesecloth or mesh and retain liquid, add the baking soda
In spray bottle dilute 1 part of the strained liquid with 4 parts warm water and add the dishwashing liquid.
Mist plants lightly.
This formulation has the added benefit of repelling insects as well. Good luck and happy rose growing!
blackspot
mildew
rust
If these three diseases can be controlled, the rose garden will be generally disease free.
Where you garden and weather conditions have much to do with how severely these fungal diseases will affect your roses. Areas where warm days and cool nights are the norm may offer ideal conditions for some fungal diseases to manifest. Also extended periods of moisture such as summer fogs, heavy dews and high humidity can create ideal conditions for the growth and spread of disease. The gardener can minimize these affects by spacing the roses well thus providing good air circulation. Also limiting excessive watering is very helpful, especially if this takes place in the morning and not in the evening, thus allowing the water on the foliage to dry off more quickly during the day.
There are many new varieties of roses that have been bred for disease resistance. It is worthwhile investing in these. From personal experience, it has been found that if the majority of the roses in the garden are disease resistant the entire garden will be minimally affected by disease. Of course there are the certain particular roses such as heirloom, old fashioned and those that one 'simply must have' due to their fragrance or color or name appeal, that may be disease susceptible. One solution is to isolate and grow this rose away from the others (if the rose garden is in the backyard, plant the rose with disease tendencies in the front yard, for example). This will help minimize the possibility of infecting the rest. Of course special attention needs to be given a rose with disease tendencies, above all keeping the foliage dry...a location with excellent air circulation helps. Try experimenting by moving roses about in the garden (during dormant period) in an effort to find the optimal growing settings.
Finally, if all efforts to prevent the fungal diseases fail and you spot the first telltale signs of trouble; and if you happen to prefer the chemical-free approach to rose gardening, here is a preventative spray you can try:
All Purpose Rose Disease Fighter
1 medium onion, chopped
3 - 4 cloves garlic, crushed
½ Jalapeno pepper, crushed
1½ tsp baking soda
Cheesecloth or fine mesh
Spray bottle
1 or 2 drops dishwashing liquid (or Insecticide soap) to help mixture adhere to foliage
Preparation:
Steep garlic, onion and pepper in 1 quart of warm water for 1 hour.
Strain the mix through the cheesecloth or mesh and retain liquid, add the baking soda
In spray bottle dilute 1 part of the strained liquid with 4 parts warm water and add the dishwashing liquid.
Mist plants lightly.
This formulation has the added benefit of repelling insects as well. Good luck and happy rose growing!
Organic Rose Fertilizer
Organic fertilizers have great value in the garden; whether you utilize only organics or choose to supplement your regular chemical-based fertilizer program, your roses will prosper. While both chemical-based and organic fertilizers may provide required nutrients, the benefits of organic fertilizers are significant.
Organic fertilizers...
can improve the quality of the soil by contributing organic matter.
contribute the micro-nutrients which contribute to strong and healthy growth
are an excellent way to add specific nutrients particular to a plant's needs.
Lovely plants are evidence of excellent soil structure; there is no greater gift you can give to your plants (and yourself) than the addition of compost to the soil. Compost helps sticky, clay soils drain better. Compost helps sandy soils hold moisture better. Compost adds vital nutrients to the soil, especially the secondary macronutrients and micronutrients. Compost provides a haven for earthworms and other organisms which help break down the soil. Learn more about Composting...
Organic Fertilizers:
Alfalfa Meal (2-7-0, 5-2-8)
Well-balanced, slow release fertilizer
Blood Meal (13-2-0)
Rapidly available nitrogen
Bone Meal (3-2-0.5) 24% calcium
Rapidly available phosphorous; increased pH slightly
Compost
Balanced, slow release, contains calcium and magnesium
Cottonseed Meal (8-2-2)
Rapidly available nitrogen
Epsom Salts (0-0-0)
Excellent source of magnesium sulfate
Fish Emulsion (5-2-2)
Rapidly available nitrogen
Fish Meal (10-4-4)
Rapidly available nitrogen
Kelp Meal (1-0.2-2)
Slow release of potassium and micronutrients. Contains growth stimulates.
Manure (cow) (2-1-2.4)
Compost all manures before using to prevent burning. Good source of sulfur, calcium, and micronutrients.
Manure (horse) (2-1-2.5)
Compost all manures before using to prevent burning. Good source of sulfur, calcium, and micronutrients.
Manure (chicken) (4-3-1)
Compost all manures before using to prevent burning. Good source of nitrogen.
Soybean Meal (6-1-2)
Magnesium, micronutrients, and rapidly available nitrogen.
Sul-Pol-Mag (0-0-22)
19% sulfur; 10% magnesium. Do not use with dolomotic lime. Rapidly available potassium and magnesium.
Organic fertilizers...
can improve the quality of the soil by contributing organic matter.
contribute the micro-nutrients which contribute to strong and healthy growth
are an excellent way to add specific nutrients particular to a plant's needs.
Lovely plants are evidence of excellent soil structure; there is no greater gift you can give to your plants (and yourself) than the addition of compost to the soil. Compost helps sticky, clay soils drain better. Compost helps sandy soils hold moisture better. Compost adds vital nutrients to the soil, especially the secondary macronutrients and micronutrients. Compost provides a haven for earthworms and other organisms which help break down the soil. Learn more about Composting...
Organic Fertilizers:
Alfalfa Meal (2-7-0, 5-2-8)
Well-balanced, slow release fertilizer
Blood Meal (13-2-0)
Rapidly available nitrogen
Bone Meal (3-2-0.5) 24% calcium
Rapidly available phosphorous; increased pH slightly
Compost
Balanced, slow release, contains calcium and magnesium
Cottonseed Meal (8-2-2)
Rapidly available nitrogen
Epsom Salts (0-0-0)
Excellent source of magnesium sulfate
Fish Emulsion (5-2-2)
Rapidly available nitrogen
Fish Meal (10-4-4)
Rapidly available nitrogen
Kelp Meal (1-0.2-2)
Slow release of potassium and micronutrients. Contains growth stimulates.
Manure (cow) (2-1-2.4)
Compost all manures before using to prevent burning. Good source of sulfur, calcium, and micronutrients.
Manure (horse) (2-1-2.5)
Compost all manures before using to prevent burning. Good source of sulfur, calcium, and micronutrients.
Manure (chicken) (4-3-1)
Compost all manures before using to prevent burning. Good source of nitrogen.
Soybean Meal (6-1-2)
Magnesium, micronutrients, and rapidly available nitrogen.
Sul-Pol-Mag (0-0-22)
19% sulfur; 10% magnesium. Do not use with dolomotic lime. Rapidly available potassium and magnesium.
Rose Fertilizer
The use of rose fertilizers ultimately comes down to what you want from your roses. The fundamental difference between synthetic fertilizers and those which are organic is that synthetics feed the plant while organics feed the soil which in turn feeds the plant. Knowing this and knowing what you want from your roses determines which way you want to proceed.
Synthetic fertilizers are high in soluble nitrates - the nitrogen form used directly by the plant. Using these fertilizers, then, will create an immediate uptake of this nitrogen, thus creating a burst of fast growth, and producing a plethora of plant-sucking rose pests like aphids, thrips, et al. which are attracted to this nitrogen and tender new growth. The advantage to using soluble nitrates as fertilizers is that you can control when you want your roses to bloom, how long you want the stems to grow, and a host of other things that are of benefit to the rosarian who wants to exhibit his or her roses at a specified time.
I realized that lilies and sweet peas were going to be relatively easy to grow. Lilies were exceptionally hardy, just plunk them into the ground and they would succeed. Sweet peas could be planted in early spring (zone 8) and they would sprout in a matter of weeks. And roses, well.digging a hole and putting them in was simple enough. What more would they need?
On the down side, it requires you to apply more pesticides to control the onslaught of pest insects, it creates excessive growth at times when freezing temperatures may cause die-back, it leaves undesirable salts in the soil, it shortens the life of the rose, and it bypasses The Nitrogen Cycle - the way Nature intended to fertilize plants - thus reducing microbial activity in the soil which is eventually detrimental to the garden as a whole.
It is for these drawbacks that I no longer use synthetic fertilizers in my rose fertilization program, although I did for almost 25 years before I learned my lessons. Many of the roses I grow have been found thriving at abandoned grave yards and home sites with no supplemental fertilization of any kind. Thus, I prefer to blend organic materials necessary to sustain rose growth over a period of years. This blend is adapted for my garden, and may not be what is needed in yours or others. (I know this blend is good for my garden because I perform regular soil tests - something I highly recommend before you purchase or blend your own rose fertilizer.)
Here's a copy of my Spring and Fall Rose Tonic. It is a modification of a recipe passed to me by a very wise and 83-years young rosarian. It assumes your soil pH ranges from 6.5 to 7.5, clay-based and/or rich in calcium.
8 parts alfalfa meal
2 parts cottonseed meal (arsenic-free)
2 parts rock phosphate (or colloidal phosphate; but not super phosphate)
2 parts bone meal
1 part blood meal
1 part Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate)
Thoroughly combine ingredients and apply 1 cup (.24 l) of mixture for each foot (30 cm) of shrub height. Lightly scratch the mixture into the soil using caution not to harm the roots. Water-in thoroughly.
This mixture is good in the spring and the fall, and can be applied as a 'tonic' to all blooming perennials, roses, azaleas and fruit-producing trees and plants.
If soil pH is above 7.5 (and it shouldn't be), reduce the Epsom salts by half to reduce the possibility of applying too much magnesium.
For new plantings, add 1 part Greensand (0-1-5) to the Fall Tonic
The NPK of the constituents varies by manufacturer; however, on average these proportions will create a 50-110-20 (or approx. 2-4-1 NPK ratio) slow-release, environment-safe fertilizer. It will not "burn" the foliage or contaminate the soil.
Blood and bone meals may attract dogs and cats. If this is a problem, repel with pepper spray around the watering well.
Feather meal may be substituted for alfalfa meal, but the quantities should be cut in half. Feather meal is also quicker to decompose and will not provide sustained nitrogen release beyond about 21 days. Furthermore, alfalfa has micronutrients not found in feather meal.
Alfalfa meal is quite dusty; a dust mask should be worn when mixing the ingredients.
I apply this tonic immediately after spring and fall pruning (here, late Feb and late Aug). It is so effective, supplemental fertilizations are not required but once-a-month in the spring - until I let the roses rest during summer's heat. For supplemental fertilizations, I use a blend of fish emulsion, kelp liquid concentrate, and un-sulfured molasses @ 2 Tbsp, 1 Tbsp, and 1 Tbsp (30ml, 15ml, 15ml) respectively per gallon of water and pour this around the watering well of each rose.
It is best, if you have a lot of roses, to purchase the ingredients in bulk from the farm/ranch or feed store vis-à-vis the nursery or mailorder. For example, alfalfa meal at the feed store costs about $8 for 40 lbs. At the nursery, it costs $7 for 4 lbs. - and it's the same stuff, just packaged with a prettier label. Use caution when purchasing from a feed store, however, to ensure the alfalfa does not contain salt, as this will be detrimental to your soil. (Try a taste test.)
And if you grow roses in pots or sell them commercially, sprinkle 1 or 2 cups of mixture around the top of the pot. When you water the plants, the fertilizer acts like a timed-release mixture that can cost much, much more.
It should also be noted that some rosarians who live in cold climates report they have reduced aphid and thrips infestations if they withhold fertilizing until after first flush in the spring, thus letting the rose generate growth and blooms from the stored energy in the roots (e.g., like bulb perennials). This would not work for us who live in warmer climates because first flush may not end until May or June, when our temperatures quite regularly get above 95°F(35°C) and our roses like to rest during summer's heat.
Synthetic fertilizers are high in soluble nitrates - the nitrogen form used directly by the plant. Using these fertilizers, then, will create an immediate uptake of this nitrogen, thus creating a burst of fast growth, and producing a plethora of plant-sucking rose pests like aphids, thrips, et al. which are attracted to this nitrogen and tender new growth. The advantage to using soluble nitrates as fertilizers is that you can control when you want your roses to bloom, how long you want the stems to grow, and a host of other things that are of benefit to the rosarian who wants to exhibit his or her roses at a specified time.
I realized that lilies and sweet peas were going to be relatively easy to grow. Lilies were exceptionally hardy, just plunk them into the ground and they would succeed. Sweet peas could be planted in early spring (zone 8) and they would sprout in a matter of weeks. And roses, well.digging a hole and putting them in was simple enough. What more would they need?
On the down side, it requires you to apply more pesticides to control the onslaught of pest insects, it creates excessive growth at times when freezing temperatures may cause die-back, it leaves undesirable salts in the soil, it shortens the life of the rose, and it bypasses The Nitrogen Cycle - the way Nature intended to fertilize plants - thus reducing microbial activity in the soil which is eventually detrimental to the garden as a whole.
It is for these drawbacks that I no longer use synthetic fertilizers in my rose fertilization program, although I did for almost 25 years before I learned my lessons. Many of the roses I grow have been found thriving at abandoned grave yards and home sites with no supplemental fertilization of any kind. Thus, I prefer to blend organic materials necessary to sustain rose growth over a period of years. This blend is adapted for my garden, and may not be what is needed in yours or others. (I know this blend is good for my garden because I perform regular soil tests - something I highly recommend before you purchase or blend your own rose fertilizer.)
Here's a copy of my Spring and Fall Rose Tonic. It is a modification of a recipe passed to me by a very wise and 83-years young rosarian. It assumes your soil pH ranges from 6.5 to 7.5, clay-based and/or rich in calcium.
8 parts alfalfa meal
2 parts cottonseed meal (arsenic-free)
2 parts rock phosphate (or colloidal phosphate; but not super phosphate)
2 parts bone meal
1 part blood meal
1 part Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate)
Thoroughly combine ingredients and apply 1 cup (.24 l) of mixture for each foot (30 cm) of shrub height. Lightly scratch the mixture into the soil using caution not to harm the roots. Water-in thoroughly.
This mixture is good in the spring and the fall, and can be applied as a 'tonic' to all blooming perennials, roses, azaleas and fruit-producing trees and plants.
If soil pH is above 7.5 (and it shouldn't be), reduce the Epsom salts by half to reduce the possibility of applying too much magnesium.
For new plantings, add 1 part Greensand (0-1-5) to the Fall Tonic
The NPK of the constituents varies by manufacturer; however, on average these proportions will create a 50-110-20 (or approx. 2-4-1 NPK ratio) slow-release, environment-safe fertilizer. It will not "burn" the foliage or contaminate the soil.
Blood and bone meals may attract dogs and cats. If this is a problem, repel with pepper spray around the watering well.
Feather meal may be substituted for alfalfa meal, but the quantities should be cut in half. Feather meal is also quicker to decompose and will not provide sustained nitrogen release beyond about 21 days. Furthermore, alfalfa has micronutrients not found in feather meal.
Alfalfa meal is quite dusty; a dust mask should be worn when mixing the ingredients.
I apply this tonic immediately after spring and fall pruning (here, late Feb and late Aug). It is so effective, supplemental fertilizations are not required but once-a-month in the spring - until I let the roses rest during summer's heat. For supplemental fertilizations, I use a blend of fish emulsion, kelp liquid concentrate, and un-sulfured molasses @ 2 Tbsp, 1 Tbsp, and 1 Tbsp (30ml, 15ml, 15ml) respectively per gallon of water and pour this around the watering well of each rose.
It is best, if you have a lot of roses, to purchase the ingredients in bulk from the farm/ranch or feed store vis-à-vis the nursery or mailorder. For example, alfalfa meal at the feed store costs about $8 for 40 lbs. At the nursery, it costs $7 for 4 lbs. - and it's the same stuff, just packaged with a prettier label. Use caution when purchasing from a feed store, however, to ensure the alfalfa does not contain salt, as this will be detrimental to your soil. (Try a taste test.)
And if you grow roses in pots or sell them commercially, sprinkle 1 or 2 cups of mixture around the top of the pot. When you water the plants, the fertilizer acts like a timed-release mixture that can cost much, much more.
It should also be noted that some rosarians who live in cold climates report they have reduced aphid and thrips infestations if they withhold fertilizing until after first flush in the spring, thus letting the rose generate growth and blooms from the stored energy in the roots (e.g., like bulb perennials). This would not work for us who live in warmer climates because first flush may not end until May or June, when our temperatures quite regularly get above 95°F(35°C) and our roses like to rest during summer's heat.
Lure Of The Temptress
Since antiquity, the rose has held a mystery, an ability to evoke a sense of passion, to somehow lure and conquer the beholder of its sublime beauty and fragrance. It was cultivated 5,000 years ago in the ancient gardens of western Asia and North Africa. Poetry has been written about the rose since the mythical rose gardens of Semiramis, Queen of Syria, and Midas, King of Phrygia.
According to Greek legend, Flora, the deity of flowers, was walking through the forest and found the body of a beautiful nymph. Sorrowful at the sight of the lovely creature dead, she decided to give her new life by turning her into a flower whose beauty surpassed all others. She called on Aphrodite to give beauty, brilliance, joy and charm; Zephyrus, the west wind, to blow away the clouds so that Apollo, the Sun, could cast warm rays upon it, and Dionysius, the god of wine to give nectar and fragrance. When the new flower was complete, Chloris placed a crown of dewdrops over her and named her the Rose, Queen of Flowers. Aphrodite presented the Rose to her son Eros, the deity of Love. The white rose became the symbol of charm and innocence and the red rose the symbol of love and desire.
Roses were already considered ancient when the Greek botanist Theophrastus wrote about "the hundred-petaled rose" in 270 B.C. The Egyptian rose, which was known for its many petals, was the one Cleopatra used to entice Mark Antony. Athenaeus, a writer of the times, records that Cleopatra covered the floors of her palace in fresh rose petals to a depth of half a meter. The sails of her royal barge were drenched in rose water. In her bedroom surrounding the bed itself, the floor was covered in a thick sultry layer of rose petals. Mark Antony fell to the seduction of the temptress; should we ask Cleopatra or the rose?
Not only Cleopatra but the ancient Romans were also obsessed with roses. Roses were strewn at public ceremonies and banquets; rose water bubbled through the emperor’s fountains. Public baths were seeped in it, and in public amphitheaters, crowds sat under sun awnings drenched in rose perfume. Rose petals were used as pillow stuffing, roses adorned people’s hair. They ate rose puddings and their love potions and aphrodisiacs all contained roses. The bacchanalia (Rome’s official orgy) was inundated with an excess of roses and rose petals.
The Emperor Nero had silver pipes installed under each guest’s plate so that during dinner the guests were spritzed with scent between courses. Above them was a ceiling painted to resemble the celestial heavens. As they looked up the ceiling would open and shower them in a continuous rain of perfume and flowers. At one of his parties such an enormous amount of rose petals fell that one of the guests was smothered to death.
According to legend, the first Rose Oil Perfume came about as a result of a discovery made by an ancient Persian caliph named Sehangir. It is said that while walking with his beautiful bride in his palace gardens along the canals and fountains decked with rose petals, he noticed an oily film on the surface of the waters, produced by the action of the sun on the roses. He was intoxicated by the heavy scent of this oil and ordered it bottled. Upon bottling this attar or otto of roses, it was found that it lasted almost indefineately. Now instead of having to surround themselves with bushels of rose petals the seduction came from a beautifully ornate flask.
For Islamic culture the rose was more of a spiritual symbol. Rose water went into the mortar of their temples, and into luscious sherbets and pastries. It was also used to scent the apparel and sprinkled onto guests as they arrived in the home. When the crusaders arrived, they discovered the lure of the 'rose temptress'. Their senses were overwhelmed by exotic indulgences in the pleasures of languorous harem women, perfumed in the attar of roses along with sandalwood and other rich scents. The knights returned to Europe with the scented oils, which became instantly fashionable. These perfumes suggested all the wicked pleasures of the East, seductive and forbidden.
During the Middle Ages the rose fell out of favour. In fact, all delicious fragrances, scents and perfumes, along with water for bathing, fell out of favour. The Dark Ages became a time when any personal indulgence was considered sinful. People stopped bathing as a response to the various diseases and plagues of the times. They believed that water held the disease they were so much afraid of. Personal hygiene became almost non-existent. In addition, and perhaps because of it, personal indulgence in the use of fragrance was considered sinful because it was associated with the hedonism of the pagan civilizations of Egypt, Greece and Rome.
Perfumes, scents and roses once again appeared onto the fashion scene in the 1700's. People of noble rank in the French court doused themselves with perfume. Later, after the French Revolution, Napoleon and Josephine indulged heavily in the use of scent. It is recorded that Napoleon transported gallons of rose and violet scent with him on his campaigns. Meanwhile, back at home in France, Josephine, his Empress not only perfumed herself in rose fragrance, she also cultivated acres of every possible rose species known at the time at her famous Malmaison.
In the 1800's, the Victorians also fell to the charm of the rose. But the rose took on a more innocent and virtuous quality. It was not considered so much exotic and forbidden but rather the subject of beautiful prose and poetry. The rose had truly become romantic. Combining an intoxicating scent with such tender and fragile beauty, it is no surprise that the rose is known as an aphrodisiac. In India today, rose petals are scattered on the wedding bed. They are also used as massage oil, sprinkled in the bath or worn as perfume. Rose oil evokes an erotic atmosphere.
In aromatherapy the fragrance of the rose has the power to unite physical and spiritual love. Rose oil has the effect of arousing desire and instilling a need for harmony. The essential oil or attar of roses is still used heavily in modern perfumes. The mystique remains. The rose has come to play two roles, as a result of history. The seductive vixen, the hot-blooded intoxicating temptress of passion and lustful love and the aesthetically pure, charming, divine beauty of pure and innocent love. Undoubtedly she has retained her original purpose as symbolized by the red and white roses of Eros.
According to Greek legend, Flora, the deity of flowers, was walking through the forest and found the body of a beautiful nymph. Sorrowful at the sight of the lovely creature dead, she decided to give her new life by turning her into a flower whose beauty surpassed all others. She called on Aphrodite to give beauty, brilliance, joy and charm; Zephyrus, the west wind, to blow away the clouds so that Apollo, the Sun, could cast warm rays upon it, and Dionysius, the god of wine to give nectar and fragrance. When the new flower was complete, Chloris placed a crown of dewdrops over her and named her the Rose, Queen of Flowers. Aphrodite presented the Rose to her son Eros, the deity of Love. The white rose became the symbol of charm and innocence and the red rose the symbol of love and desire.
Roses were already considered ancient when the Greek botanist Theophrastus wrote about "the hundred-petaled rose" in 270 B.C. The Egyptian rose, which was known for its many petals, was the one Cleopatra used to entice Mark Antony. Athenaeus, a writer of the times, records that Cleopatra covered the floors of her palace in fresh rose petals to a depth of half a meter. The sails of her royal barge were drenched in rose water. In her bedroom surrounding the bed itself, the floor was covered in a thick sultry layer of rose petals. Mark Antony fell to the seduction of the temptress; should we ask Cleopatra or the rose?
Not only Cleopatra but the ancient Romans were also obsessed with roses. Roses were strewn at public ceremonies and banquets; rose water bubbled through the emperor’s fountains. Public baths were seeped in it, and in public amphitheaters, crowds sat under sun awnings drenched in rose perfume. Rose petals were used as pillow stuffing, roses adorned people’s hair. They ate rose puddings and their love potions and aphrodisiacs all contained roses. The bacchanalia (Rome’s official orgy) was inundated with an excess of roses and rose petals.
The Emperor Nero had silver pipes installed under each guest’s plate so that during dinner the guests were spritzed with scent between courses. Above them was a ceiling painted to resemble the celestial heavens. As they looked up the ceiling would open and shower them in a continuous rain of perfume and flowers. At one of his parties such an enormous amount of rose petals fell that one of the guests was smothered to death.
According to legend, the first Rose Oil Perfume came about as a result of a discovery made by an ancient Persian caliph named Sehangir. It is said that while walking with his beautiful bride in his palace gardens along the canals and fountains decked with rose petals, he noticed an oily film on the surface of the waters, produced by the action of the sun on the roses. He was intoxicated by the heavy scent of this oil and ordered it bottled. Upon bottling this attar or otto of roses, it was found that it lasted almost indefineately. Now instead of having to surround themselves with bushels of rose petals the seduction came from a beautifully ornate flask.
For Islamic culture the rose was more of a spiritual symbol. Rose water went into the mortar of their temples, and into luscious sherbets and pastries. It was also used to scent the apparel and sprinkled onto guests as they arrived in the home. When the crusaders arrived, they discovered the lure of the 'rose temptress'. Their senses were overwhelmed by exotic indulgences in the pleasures of languorous harem women, perfumed in the attar of roses along with sandalwood and other rich scents. The knights returned to Europe with the scented oils, which became instantly fashionable. These perfumes suggested all the wicked pleasures of the East, seductive and forbidden.
During the Middle Ages the rose fell out of favour. In fact, all delicious fragrances, scents and perfumes, along with water for bathing, fell out of favour. The Dark Ages became a time when any personal indulgence was considered sinful. People stopped bathing as a response to the various diseases and plagues of the times. They believed that water held the disease they were so much afraid of. Personal hygiene became almost non-existent. In addition, and perhaps because of it, personal indulgence in the use of fragrance was considered sinful because it was associated with the hedonism of the pagan civilizations of Egypt, Greece and Rome.
Perfumes, scents and roses once again appeared onto the fashion scene in the 1700's. People of noble rank in the French court doused themselves with perfume. Later, after the French Revolution, Napoleon and Josephine indulged heavily in the use of scent. It is recorded that Napoleon transported gallons of rose and violet scent with him on his campaigns. Meanwhile, back at home in France, Josephine, his Empress not only perfumed herself in rose fragrance, she also cultivated acres of every possible rose species known at the time at her famous Malmaison.
In the 1800's, the Victorians also fell to the charm of the rose. But the rose took on a more innocent and virtuous quality. It was not considered so much exotic and forbidden but rather the subject of beautiful prose and poetry. The rose had truly become romantic. Combining an intoxicating scent with such tender and fragile beauty, it is no surprise that the rose is known as an aphrodisiac. In India today, rose petals are scattered on the wedding bed. They are also used as massage oil, sprinkled in the bath or worn as perfume. Rose oil evokes an erotic atmosphere.
In aromatherapy the fragrance of the rose has the power to unite physical and spiritual love. Rose oil has the effect of arousing desire and instilling a need for harmony. The essential oil or attar of roses is still used heavily in modern perfumes. The mystique remains. The rose has come to play two roles, as a result of history. The seductive vixen, the hot-blooded intoxicating temptress of passion and lustful love and the aesthetically pure, charming, divine beauty of pure and innocent love. Undoubtedly she has retained her original purpose as symbolized by the red and white roses of Eros.
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